Yes, but driving one hour make my head hurt, EVEN i have all new weatherstrips all over the car.

Be sure to seal behind the interior panel at the bottom of the rear hatch on the inside. Some sealant and a piece of plastic film will do this nicely.

I have sealed and soundproofed it. How the inner rear seal suppose to be, lip outside hatch (inside car) or lip betveen hatch and car itself?

Btw your avatar gets spookier every day

Edited June 1, 201113 yr by Reverend

It is sometimes called the "finisher". It is the fake leather panel at the bottom of the hatch on the inside of the car. Just remove it and seal the big hole(s) behind it. This helps a lot however there are other areas where fumes can come in.

In your case the evaporating coolant can also come in through the front area where it is dripping on the hot block so maybe some grommet holes in the firewall could be checked.

I am having fun with Avatars. Time for a new one.

Crap, now its leaking from the front.

How can i set the TDC properly?

Here is a step-by-step I posted for your job: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?42420-77-280z-head-removal-step-by-step-photos

To set TDC just put car in neutral, pull plugs and turn motor at crank using a big socket (27mm if I recall correctly)

Turn the crank until the mark on the damper pulley matches with the "0" on the degree timing scale.

Check to see that the two cam lobes for cylinder 1 are "relatively" pointing up. You have to remove oil cap and feel the lobes.

You can check Cylinder #1 plug holeand should see the top of the cylinder.

My timing scale differs from yours. There is 5 little nicks on the wheel and only one "arrow". In wich position should the wheel/chain be? Im totally newbie in timing things. Also where this white piece of chain should be when in TDC?

The pulley turns clockwise as viewed from the front, so the first tick to sweep past the pointer should be 0 degrees with the others are at 5 degrees apart. In your photo, the top tick is 0. Maybe paint it yellow or red

The painted link on the timing chain may or may not line up. It does not matter. Just get piston in highest position and two front cam lobes for cylinder #1 up- then you are good for TDC.

You can put a screwdriver in plug hole #1 and watch the piston raise and push the screwdriver up as you turn the crank to double check TDC. You can go back and forth to get it perfectly at top

Edited June 18, 201113 yr by Blue

Dauym cam sprocket, i better loosen it a bit before setting it to TDC... After turning the cam few times i found out the TDC, white chain in 2o'clock and first nick on the arrow. But i lost it when i started to loosen the cam sprocket . Amazing is that i havent break a single bolt so far and exhaust and intake manifolds were super easy to remove.

Li'l update on the current situation: Head is off and chain is tight for now. BUT i forgot to look in which hole the camshaft guide was in cam sprocket. There is 3 holes in sprocket. It SHOULD be in tdc, cam lobes are up (\ /) and piston also. Thanks to my lovely wife who helped me to lift the head up and hold the chain on place.

Since you are not replacing the timing set (chain, gears, guides and tensioner), you would likely have to advance a hole or two anyways. When you reassemble, start with hole #2 and check the chain stretch per the FSM. If it needs more, go to hole #3. If that doesn't do it, it's time for a new timing set.

Don't forget to stuff a clean towel down around the chain until you are ready to reinstall the gear. Every small part in your garage will get sucked down that open hole like it's a giant vortex.

It looks like cylinder #6 was the one with the head gasket leak since it's the only clean piston.