New head gasket

[240260280z]

Congrats! You are there now! Way to go.

I like a Z with cam sprocket on #3... it moves your power band into higher RPMS.

Please check your head at a machine shop to see if it is not warped. That can cause the leaks at front and back that you discovered.

Also when you reassemble, be sure to clean out the head bolt holes in the block and clean the head bolt threads... just oil them and you are good to go.

Also I like to put the head across two small blocks of wood (like a bridge) or on its side so that the valves do not rest on anything.

Keep us updated and ask any questions.

btw for removing the cam sprocket without rotating it, you can do this:

[LeonV]

I like a Z with cam sprocket on #3... it moves your power band into higher RPMS.

That's actually backwards. Moving sprocket positions from 1 towards 3 will advance the cam, thus moving the powerband down for more low and mid-range torque.

[Reverend]

Head is now in machine shop, theyre gonna take the valve guides off IF they need to straighten it. Hope this goes well, i didnt sleep last night as i had nightmares about screwing this totally.

[olzed]

You are doing well. Take your time and think it through.

[Reverend]

Don't forget to stuff a clean towel down around the chain until you are ready to reinstall the gear. Every small part in your garage will get sucked down that open hole like it's a giant vortex.

Hahaha, true

[Reverend]

Head is now ready at the machine shop, it was actually a little warped. I was wondering about the manifold gasket, there is metal plates in it . Do they come against the manifold or against the head? This rebuilding part scares me the most, what could go wrong and how can i prevent that?

[Reverend]

Any1? I've cleaned the old surfaces with gasket remover and grinded the intake manifold to good as new condition. That little 20€ Dremel-lookalike is a must to have. Any hints on cleaning the pistons? They are completely charred and i only managed to clean no1 and 6 cause they are up. I dont want to mess with timing so maybe i'll just leave those 4 alone?

[240260280z]

I can't recall about the gasket orientation.

Many coat it with antiseize on both sides to prep it.

For cleaning pistons here is a solution I read:

Put a ring of grease or vaseline around the edge to seal the ring areas.

Use a solvent like carb cleaner, brake cleaner, or kerosene to soak the piston tops and soften the carbon.

Use a wooden stick to scrape the tops if needed.

Wipe up and then wipe away the grease.

Lightly oil the cylinder walls.

Be sure to change the oil after you install the head.

[Reverend]

Head is now in place, my current problem is how to put cam sprocket back in place, all the marks align and chain seems to be tight enough but i just cant pop it in place. I still have that wooden stick holding chain, should i remove it when installing sprocket? If we manage to fit that guide pivot on its place it wont go deep enough..

[240260280z]

Nope, do not remove the wooden stick.

The common way to get the chain on the cam sprocket is to use a long flat screw driver (with some electrical tape around the end to protect threads).

Simply stick the screw driver through the cam sprocket then push the screwdriver into the nose of the cam. Then pry up using the screw driver as a lever to lift the sprocket while, at the same time, pushing the sprocket into place. If I recall correctly I may have used the top front of the head as a fulcrum so put a rag or rubber there to protect the aluminum from the screw driver.

To do this step easily it is best if the head is in place. Be sure the block is still near TDC and also that the head is at TDC so that the valves stick out correctly underneath and do not hit pistons.

When putting the cam sprocket in place, be sure to align the correct "dimple" with the link on the chain that you painted.

[Reverend]

Well..eh.. i didnt paint any dimple, i just checked that the alignment marks were on right places and #1 was about 2o'clock. Chain "suppose" to be in same position. At least the marks fit and chain is very stiff. Thanks for the hints.

[Jeff G 78]

The cam must have EXACTLY the right rotation or the sprocket won't want to slip into place. I usually install the cam sprocket bolt and just tighten it enough with my fingers so it can't move out any. I then pry as Blue suggests and while doing that, I rotate the cam a tiny bit back and forth until the sprocket slips on. Obviously it helps to have another set of hands, but I have done it alone many times. That's where the bolt comes in. If the screwdriver slips, you won't have to reposition the chain and sprocket.

If the sprocket is visibly lower than the cam, even by a little bit, you might not have the chain wedged correctly and the tensioner might not be fully seated. There isn't much you can do except try to stick a long screwdriver down in front of the block and try to wiggle the tensioner in fully. You can also remove the top bolt of the curved chain guide and rotate the guide to give you more slack in the chain. When doing this, you risk loosening the bottom guide bolt which is inside the front cover, so be careful.