With help of a dry apple cider, i managed to get the sprocket on place. Chain is tight so it seems i dont have to mess with it for a long time (hope so), now i shall open a another bottle for celebration

Step 39 on this page is very important when disassembling. Did you follow it?

No i did not paint the chain, before removing, i checked that sprocket and cam markings fit. Now when i installed them back, they fit and chain is stiff. I believe i have done everything right.

If you are absolutely sure that the sprockets on the cam are meshed with the same links on the chain then you are ok. Other wise you may be a link or two off in advance or retard direction. This will result in a problem.

The best thing to do now is to continue with the chain attachment (assuming head is torques down) then remove the wood (keep valve cover off) then :

1, Turn the crank using a big socket. (hopefully the valves will not hit the pistons so be careful and stop if you feel any interference)

2. Do 2 revolutions then align the timing mark on the damper to 0 degree mark and the \ / angles for cylinder 1 lobes (you know what I mean) "TDC"

3. Check the cam sprocket alignment reference and triangle marks. If the triangle and reference marks are close then you are good. If they are significantly to the right or left then you must remove the cam sprocket (using wood again), then re-install the cam sprocket rotated either way so that the dash and the triangle line-up. See the picture below.

Edited July 15, 201113 yr by Blue

It's almost done! All i need to do is torque head bolts and install fuel pump and put all the hoses back. Why should i change oil? I have drove just 800 miles with these oils.

Edited July 17, 201113 yr by Reverend

Change oil because debris could have entered it.

Also make sure with the damper at O degrees check the marks on the cam sprocket to make sure it is correct. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT.

Yes i turned cam few times and sprocket marks and cam marks match as does the lower 0 degree mark. So all SHOULD be fine..?! Well i better change that oil then, i use cheap Mobil 10W-40, which seems to be a good oil for my Z.

Excellent!

You should also re-torque your head bolts and check valve lash after a few hundred km of driving just.

Good Luck!

Happy to hear everything went well Koalia.

Yayy! I made it run. Nice and steady idle, it seems i didnt screw up after all. BUT there is major problem. First i tought it was ignition lock related and i changed it about a year ago, it stayed away for this long. Engine can just instantly die without any warning, all the other electric stuff stays on, radio, fan etc. But the engine wont. Also sometimes it even wont start at all, i turn key and nothing, not even starter turns. Then i remove ground from battery, put it back and it starts. I NEED to deal with this quikly, as there is first Z meet in 3 years here, and i have to drive 600 miles next weekend. Cant drive with broken Z..

PS. is it normal that new manifold gaskets smokes?

Check the exhaust port on #6. They wear thru to the water jacket below and that will dump water into the motor. I had the same thing happen to mine.

It was indeed smoking from the number 6, do i need to dismantle it or what?