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new starter. no cranking


yoshi_w

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Hi, so my starter died and I replaced it, but when I tried to start it, there was no clicking or anything. It sat for about a month until I had time to change the starter so is this most likely a problem of a dead battery? Is this right? Thanks!

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Sorry, I have a 1973 240z, l28, re-manufactured gear reduction starter, and a slightly used msd blaster 2 coil. I'll definitely try the headlights an horns. As for the bench test, I will do that if the lights, etc. do work. Thanks for your help!

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Could also just be a bad connection at the battery, on either the ground or positive side. Clean the posts and clamps, be sure the battery is charged, and.... be sure you have the little yellow wire with the spade on it plugged in at the starter solenoid. It is the starter excite wire and the starter will NOT turn with out it. In fact, check there first...........

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Touch a small wire from the battery (+) terminal to the little spade connector on the starter's solenoid. If the starter springs to life, the problem is somewhere in your ignition switch wiring, and not in either the battery or starter. If so, it could be a bad fusible link.

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I changed the battery, the lights go on now, but when I try to start it, it only clicks once which is like the starter is dead, but I just replaced it with a re-manufactured gear-reduction starter, any ideas? could this still be the fusible link? Or do I need to get the starter tested (which I really do not want to remove since I had to do it from the top which was a pain)? I will get the starter checked if I have to though, thanks!

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Have you tried the test Sarah suggested? Make sure the car is NOT in gear when you do...

Touch a small wire from the battery (+) terminal to the little spade connector on the starter's solenoid. If the starter springs to life, the problem is somewhere in your ignition switch wiring, and not in either the battery or starter.
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Yes, you can use any sort of wire. I suggest one with an alligator clip on the end. Be certain not to short to ground, or you will make a big (yet harmless) spark. Don't touch the wire to your bare fingers, or else the kick-back could give you a bit of a shock.

And YES, by all means be absolutely certain the car is out of gear, or else you could end up with a wheel ontop of your foot! Yikes! (Good catch, Kenny!)

Is the clicking definitely from the starter and not a relay? If so, that's all the involvement any of your fusible links would have. If the solenoid clicks, and the supply is good to the starter via the fat battery cables (both the positive from the battery's (+) to the starter's (+) and the negative from the battery's (-) to the engine ground), then the starter should spring to life. Two possibilities are that your cables are bad or that your battery is bad. Your cables might have severe corrosion near the battery post connectors, just underneath the insulation. If so, you might see a bulge there. Also check to see that your connections are firm.

If your cables are in good shape and making good contact, you can determine the integrity of your battery by turning your headlights on and turning the key to "start." If your headlights glow dimly before you turn the key and go completely out when you turn it, your battery is weak/bad. If your headlights glow pretty well whether you turn the key or not, and if your starter definitely clicks, then the starter is probably bad.

FAIW, you can pull both your starter and your battery off and take them in for testing at many/most parts stores. I think I would trust a starter test, but these stores are notorious for misdiagnosing batteries, so take their results with a grain of salt.

Edited by FastWoman
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