wipers stopped working

[driftmunky]

my wipers stopped working all of a sudden. i read some previous posts about this and have noticed that the rubber boots are totally missing on mine. i'm pretty sure there is still power going to the wiper motors becuz every time i turn the wiper switch on i see the amp meter flicker a bit, in addition to that i can still hear the wiper motors when i turn the switch on. i hear a quiet noise like the motors still moving but the wipers don't actually move. i can also move the wipers freely left and right with my hand when the wipers are off. i didn't try to move them when i had the wiper switch on.

should i just take them apart and try and clean them out?

the base of the wipers where the rubber boots are supposed to be are rusted on the outside.

[2ManyZs]

Well, if you can hear the motor running and the wiper arms are not seized, it almost sounds like the arm might have come off the motor. Guess the only way to know for sure is to pull the motor and linkage all the way out and see for sure. It all depends on where it came apart as to whether you can fix it easily or not.

[zoom240]

I had a 240Z & the wipers froze up. Fine one day, locked up the next. They would make a sound, like they were trying to move, but nothing. When I took them apart, I found rust & grit on the moving parts of the linkage. All it needed was cleaning & greasing.

[EScanlon]

I agree with 2MZ's. Motor heard running...electrical check ok. Wipers can be moved manually with the motor turned off...link to motor gone.

Remove the arms, then the cowl, then check the nut and the arm that holds everything to the motor. Like 2MZ said, you're probably just missing that connection. To correct it you may have to remove the motor and the arms from the bay to make it easier.

With that being the case, take the time to disassemble the wiper arm bushing holders (that's the thing that bolts to the car and the wiper mechanism rod goes through), check for play, regrease them then reassemble them. I've heard of people using spark plug wiper boots in an emergency, instead of the wiper boots.

Grease all of the linkages for the wipers before you return the assembly to the car.

Take a minute to ensure that you clean out any leaves / debris that may be in the cowl bucket area.

Replace cowl but note the following WARNING!!

BEFORE YOU REPLACE THE WIPER ARMS!!!

Connect the motor to the harness, then get inside and turn the key in the ignition lock to "run", i.e. that position that it falls back to after the starter has started the engine. Let the wiper motor cycle back to "park" Then before you go mounting wipers, turn ON the wipers and observe the shafts as you turn on and turn off the motor a couple times.

Ensure that when the wiper motor STARTS it turns the shafts CLOCKWISE from the STOPPED and INITIAL position. If it is going COUNTER-CLOCKWISE you will scrape your cowl and hood with the wiper arms.

If the arms are going clockwise, turn off the wiper motor AT THE SWITCH, let the park function operate, then mount your wiper arms at the lowest position on the windshield, such that they are barely touching the windshield gasket rubber.

2¢

[Bambikiller240]

written by Enrique:

Ensure that when the wiper motor STARTS it turns the shafts CLOCKWISE from the STOPPED and INITIAL position. If it is going COUNTER-CLOCKWISE you will scrape your cowl and hood with the wiper arms.

I'm going to need to remove my wiper assemblies for a good cleaning as they are finally, after 31 years; starting to run a bit slow. Upon re-installation, what would make the wipers run counter-clockwise?............and if they do run in the wrong direction, how would I correct the issue? :nervous:

Sorry if it is a dumb question. :stupid:

Carl

[EScanlon]

Simply remove the arm at the motor and turn it 180° and reattach and fasten.

If the wiper linkage arms are connected to the motor with the final bar 180° off, the initial movement of the wiper motor (which is the same rotation) wil be transmitted to the wiper shafts in reverse.

The connecting arm has a simple extended slot to fit onto the shaft of the motor. The slot is not keyed to only go in one way, it can be mounted 180° off.

Believe me, I had this happen to me, although by being completely anal in my assembly inspection and insisting on operating everything before proceeding onto the next step was I able to avoid this pitfall. Otherwise I might have discovered it when my wipers skittered across the cowl and onto the hood!

The arm that connects to the motor will first PULL on the link arm, this pull is then converted into rotation by the link behind the shaft holders. When it PULLS it becomes CLOCKWISE rotation of the shaft. If it PUSHES as it will if the arm is mounted 180° off, it will become counter-clockwise rotation.

Think of it as having the motor stopped when the wipers are at the end of their travel UP the windshield. If that is the point at which you then START the motor, the first thing it will do is bring the arms back down, before cycling them back up.

Now, if you find that you have this problem, you COULD mount your wipers such that the blades stick straight up when parked, but that would look really bad.

One other note Carl, when you disassemble the wipers and the motor, no need to disassemble the motor housing etc. If you get ambitious and decide to open the motor up anyhow, be careful of that weird "switch" on the back of the transmission. That is the park location switch, and it allows the motor to operate until it reaches the "park" position. By the way, the transmission is a worm gear to circular gear, so do NOT try to actuate the motor via the shaft, all you'll get is a stripped circular gear. Also, if you open the motor housing to get at the armature, be very VERY careful as it is a bear to put back together again.

To check that the motor operates, (which it sounds as it IS working) leave it connected to the wiring harness, but disconnect the arms. If I recall it's a 12mm nut. Actuate your wiper switch on the stalk and observe the motor. The motor is not a speed demon, as long as it turns at both speeds you're ok. If I recall right, it's like 65 RPM at low and 75 or so at High. (someone check the FSM, mine is put away at the moment, THANKS)

Next, look at the wiper linkage assembly. This is the culprit of so many slow wipers. Look at the ball linkages and oil those well, then grease them with some white grease. They should turn and swivel around the ball easily. If the felt washers that hold oil / grease there are gone, try to find some, or at least be aware that this is an area that will need maintenance occasionally.

Then before you put everything back, carefully remove the round clip at the shaft that holds the shaft through the shaft holder. This can easily be pried up and out of its grove, don't bend it! Then ease it off the shaft, I did it by pushing down on the shaft and letting the shaft holder push it off. You should now be able to remove the shaft from inside the shaft holder.

Look inside the shaft holder. You should see that there are two bushings inside of it, with about a 3/8" gap between the upper and lower bushing. Clean these off with a soft wire brush, enough to remove the rust, but not enough to mar or remove material. Also inspect the shaft for any wear.

If the shaft is worn badly, you need to find a replacement set of shafts, it's easier to find the whole linkage assy at a boneyard. If the bushings are worn such that they allow the shaft to have play, then I suggest you replace the bushings. You want the shaft to spin freely, but not have any side to side play. If you feel you won't be able to find replacement bushings, then get a new set of linkages.

When you're ready to reassemble, make sure that the gap between the bushings gets packed with some white grease. This is the "reservoir" that eventually gets used up, and it's what the rubber boots are supposed to protect. Then put the circle ring back on. Your shaft holders should be able to spin relatively freely around the shaft. If they do, and your arm linkages have easy spin also, you should get the same kind of speed out of your wipers as when the car was new.

I find it easier to attach the linkages to the motor outside the car, and then insert the whole thing as a unit. Slide the driver's side of the linkage into the area where it goes and a little beyond, you should now be able to insert the passenger side. Bring everything back to center and place the motor approximately where it goes. Fasten the shaft holders to the cowl undermetal, THEN fasten the motor to the bracket.

Connect the wire harness and check the motor rotation NOW. If it's wrong, remove the whole assembly, turn the link to the linkage 180° and reattach. Once you have the wiper shafts operating properly, then turn off the switch, allow the wiper motor to "park", then replace the cowl and wiper arms.

Hope this helps, as usual, sorry for the length.

Enrique Scanlon

P.S. I am a bit anal about how I repair / restore my equipment. I can also type lightning fast, so I tend to make these huge posts. I hope that you guys don't mind the length, if I explain it so that it is simple. My personal peeve in some of the manuals is: Reassembly is the reverse of removal.:stupid: Yes, sometimes it need not be explained, but THIS tip wasn't in any manual I could find.

[driftmunky]

wow!

you guys are wicked!

everytime i ask for help i get such great responses.

thanks

[Daniel]

The short version of how to know your wiper linkage is 180 degrees off is when you turn them on they shoot across your newly painted hood instead of your windshield.At that point you lose color in your cheeks(all four of them!!!) You newby's that have this most excellent site at your disposal should really give thanks to Mike this season.The headache removal he provides you is a wonderful gift!!!! Have fun!! Daniel

[Bambikiller240]

:classic: Wow, Enrique, I appreciate your detailed explanation, which I am saving to disk for the implementaion of this project (probably in the early spring if the wipers last that long); which I believe they will. This sounds like a MAJORLY complicated task to get done correctly. Especially for a dyslexic. All that rotating linkage kinda scares me. :sick: :cross-eye

I too am pretty anal about how I do things on my Z. I'd rather take a week and do it right, than to do it half-assed in a day and then have to do it over again 3 more times to get it right.

The final question I have is........ Is there a way, or place(s) to mark things prior to disassembly of the linkage so that one can be CERTAIN to get it installed correctly the first time? I don't have manual at my disposal now, (my FSM & Haynes manuals are at the garage I use which is 10 miles away) and I've never even looked inside the cowl of a Z, so this is all new to me.

Thanks very much for taking the time to share your expertise! I appreciate it very much!

Carl

[EScanlon]

Carl, sorry if I made it sound OVERLY complicated as it is NOT.

My too anal obsessive overly detailed explanation probably made it seem so, but in fact it's quite straight forward.

I'll see if I can find a diagram for the assembly, but I'm sure you'll look at it and say: Geez, he made a huge mountain out of nothing.

The main reason I mention the little tiny details is that when this is read by someone in another country who may speak English, but who uses the term Bonnet instead of Hood, or what have you, the overall detail will help identify the item in general and hence convey the idea. This also applies should that person not be fluent in English.

Feel free to e-mail me directly with questions and I'll do what I can to get you through it.

Enrique Scanlon

[Bambikiller240]

Hi Enrique:

No, it's not your explanation that makes it seem complicated, it's my mild case of dyslexia.

We probably have a similar outlook in regards to working on our cars. I am very meticulous in working step, by step, checking everything twice, then checking again, just to be sure I didn't miss anything the first two times that i checked. This approach has "saved my bacon" more than once and as a result I find it difficult if not impossible to work any other way.

PS : It's those "tiny details" that make the difference between wiper arm scratches on the hood and a completed job that one can be proud to have accomplished (IMHO, anyway)!!:stupid:

I probably won't attempt the refurbishment until Spring, but when the time comes, I'll remember your kind offer of assistance. Thank you!

[EScanlon]

I scanned this in from an old Clymer's manual, the first one with the blue cover.

Although it shows the "blow-up" diagram, it doesn't show the parts detailed in my post, but it should help as far as the general assembly and location of the wipers.

Hope it helps.

Enrique

P.S. I had to shrink it and split it into two pictures in order for it to be allowed on the site, if you want a larger image of it, in order to read the numbers / words better, let me know or e-mail me with your address.