New 240Z build

[steve91tt]

I've been looking for a platform to build into a track/street car for the past few months and I finally found one.

It's a 1971 2 owner 240Z. Very solid body, zero rust as far as I can tell so far. It's been resprayed but I don't think it's had any accident damage. The engine has not run since 1989 so it's going to take some work to get her back on the road. I put ATF in the cylinders and was able to move the crank a few degrees by hand so I think it's not seized. I pulled the valve cover and everything looks very good.

The gas tank is full of crud so I am looking for someone to boil the tank. Does anyone know of a shop in the Houston area that can refurbish gas tanks?

[d240zx2]

There's a radiator shop just south of Spring Cypress on Kuykendahl, east side of the road. I've used him for radiator work, but don't know if he does gas tanks. Can't remember the name of the business, although I can drive you there.... typical me.

Frank

[JLPurcell]

Nice find! Here in the rust belt we don't come across "rust free cars". jlp

[ajmcforester]

Nice car from what I can see it should make a great track car. I bet all sorts of ideas are running in your head on what you want to do to the car to make it a good track car. just remember to get the rules you are planning to race and build to the rules, if the rules change or you change the racing type you just change the car.

I notice the car has a lot of original parts, if you plan not to use these parts let me know I could use them or keep them as spares. This includes fasteners, hose-clamps and other various hardware. I'm also have been looking for a good ashtray, andbrake booster hoses

[Travel'n Man]

If you take the tank to have it boiled do not let them pressurize it and expand it - I took one to a shop in Charlotte NC a few years back and somehow they expanded the thing like a balloon....naturally it would not fit under the rear hatch any more and had to buy another one........by the time it was all finished I had several hundered $$ in that tank - best of luck.

While it is out change all those fuel lines (you'll be glad you did!!).

[steve91tt]

It does have lots of original parts including a new stock wiring harness, heater hoses, dizzy cap, etc. that have never been installed. Not sure why the previous owner bought an extra wiring harness but I'm sure I'll find out soon.

There are actually quite a few low or no rust cars in this area. I looked at one last week with an original uncracked dash very low rust and he only wanted $1000 for it. If I had the room I'd buy it and part it out.

[steve91tt]

Just got finished stripping most of the engine bay. Nothing left but a short block supported by a jack stand. No surprises yet. Everything came apart very easily. The back of the intake and exhaust valves look fairly clean and the radiator was full of very clean looking antifreeze. Very happy!

The only real issue that I came across was that the throttle shafts on the SU's seem to have quite a bit of play. At least more than I'm used to. I assume they are going to leak given that they have 110 000 miles on them. I could rebuild them but then I would have a rebuilt set of carbs with a vacuum leak. I'm thinking of moving my Z Therapy SU's from my other car (3.0 liter Rebello) and getting a set of triples for it. I've always wanted a set of triples to play with and the SU's should support the 2.4 liter quite nicely.

I don't know much about triples...time to start reading!

[steve91tt]

I've been doing a bunch of reading and I think I have a plan.

Engine: Leave it as it is. It looks like it's in good shape so I don't think I'll mess with it until later.

Fuel: 44mm Mikuni's from Wolf Creek Racing (big but with small chokes they will work the same as 40mm's and there is lots of room to grow with 44's). RX7 fuel pump. Holley FPR.

Exhaust: coated MSA 6:1's to a 2.5". Muffler TBD.

Spark: MSD 6AL2, stock dizzy

Cooling: 3 row champion radiator, 2x12" electric fans

Drive train: stock, upgraded to CV's in back.

Wheels: 15" Rewinds with 205 Nitto NT-01's

Suspension: tokico illumina's on Eibachs (from my other car), big sway bars front and back

Seat, harness and cage: TBD

Still lots of reading to do in order to get the details right but I'm hoping this is a good start. What do you think?

[ajmcforester]

On a track brakes can be more important to higher speed than more HP. I'd trade the carbs for better brakes and seat.

[steve91tt]

Oops forgot the brakes. I have a set of Wilwoods sitting on my work bench that will be going on the car. I agree with the importance of the seat. I am tall and I hit my head going over bumps on the street without a helmet. So, I'm in the market for a low seat. I'm thinking I'll likely have to mount what ever I go with to the floor. Any suggestions?

[ajmcforester]

Aluminum bucket, it will get you low and it will hold you in well

[steve91tt]

Like this?

http://www.ultrashieldrace.com/prod.php?id=8