New 240Z build

[steve91tt]

Thanks for the links. I order the heat shield from Japan this morning. How long did it take to get the heat shield when you ordered it?

[Travel'n Man]

Around 4-5 days - pretty quick considering it's coming from Japan! No need for 3 barb fuel rail? I did not want to dead head the end of my fuel line and with all the research I have done did not want to run the return line back. I discussed with Dave Rebello and a few other folks and nobody recommended the return line at all. I have not had any issues at all with my set up other than great sound and tons of power and torque.............:classic:

What filter did you end up going with?

[Travel'n Man]

Just got finished stripping most of the engine bay. Nothing left but a short block supported by a jack stand. No surprises yet. Everything came apart very easily. The back of the intake and exhaust valves look fairly clean and the radiator was full of very clean looking antifreeze. Very happy!

The only real issue that I came across was that the throttle shafts on the SU's seem to have quite a bit of play. At least more than I'm used to. I assume they are going to leak given that they have 110 000 miles on them. I could rebuild them but then I would have a rebuilt set of carbs with a vacuum leak. I'm thinking of moving my Z Therapy SU's from my other car (3.0 liter Rebello) and getting a set of triples for it. I've always wanted a set of triples to play with and the SU's should support the 2.4 liter quite nicely.

I don't know much about triples...time to start reading!

While that radiator is out I would go ahead and get it boiled and rodded - in NC it was only around $40 and a good $40 to spend ensuring one less future possible problem.

[steve91tt]

The fuel rail looks beautiful but I didn't go with it because I have never liked the way the mounts on the stock fuel rail conduct heat to the fuel. In Texas, on a track, cool fuel is important. I may end up going this way in the end but I will look for other options first.

I have a new 3 row aluminum radiator left over from build. I had planned on going with it on the track car but the radiator that's in it holds pressure nicely and looks new inside. I'll stick with it for now.

[rexz]

Beautiful build, very well done.. i like the look of the fuel rail you have. Did get the rail from Wolf Creek ?

Rex

[rexz]

Read your post better and found the links you provided.. Thanks for the links

Rex

[steve91tt]

The triples are here! Todd at Wolfe Creek came through with a set of beautiful mikuni's.

I installed the carbs this morning. All went fairly smoothly. I had to trim the flange on my header about 1/16" to get the manifold to fit but easily done. I love the sound! Here's a quick video...

Couple of issues...

1. The idle screw on the middle carb is frozen. I can't get it to budge even with vice grips. If I put any more torque on it the idle armature will bend. Because of this I can't get the idle lower than about 1500 rpm and still be in reasonable sync with the other two carbs. To get to 1500rpm I have the screw on the front carb all the way off and the rear carb similar.

2. The idle hangs at about 4000rpms at times. I took apart the linkage, lubed it up and de-stressed it as much as I could but it still hangs some times. Related to #1?

3. The car starts great but under more than 20% throttle it dies. I don't have an O2 bung yet for my wideband and I don't think I could make it to the muffler shop with it the way it is so I'm going to have to trouble shoot it the old fashioned way.

Edited June 18, 2011 by steve91tt

[steve91tt]

Update: The plugs were jet black so I went down from a set of 150 main jets to a set of 140's. It may be a little better at part throttle but definitely not dialed in yet. I found that the car will rev smoothly above 5000rpm with light throttle but go beyond 20% at any RPM and it starts to cut out.

[madkaw]

I got to say Steve, you don't f#&k around -do you. You just started this thread over a month ago and your already this far!

You need that wideband on this car. I have been trying to really study my wideband on my SU's so I will see the diffference when my triples go on.

So someone enlighten me about this stud issue with the shorter manifold. I have the shorter manifold and don't intend on changing this because of my airbox. I have all new studs too:(

[steve91tt]

I've got a friend that will weld a wide band bung in for me next weekend but I'm pretty sure that it's running rich. The plugs look like charcoal brickets. I'm working with Todd at Wolfe Creek. He knows these carbs inside and out. I'm confident we'll get it dialed in soon.

[steve91tt]

More data this morning...I plumbed a temporary fuel pressure gauge so I can watch the fuel pressure while I drive. Good news, the fuel pressure holds rock solid at 3.0 psi. Not sure what the problem is but I'm starting to figure out what it isn't! Back to the drawing board.

[steve91tt]

I took a rest from wrenching and took my son fishing in the car we have been working on. Good fishing...a little on the small side though.

Anyways...I found that when I got out on the highway and the car runs great with light throttle but still stumbles badly at tip in. However, if I keep my foot in it the car clears itself and pulls smoothly to red line.

Basically the car runs normally except on transition from light throttle to medium or heavy throttle. Once I get past the stumble it will pull happily through the gears.

Any ideas?