is there a schematic posted here of how to wire one into the ignition system?

The FSM is your friend. Go to the link below and find the one you need.

Ok I installed a ballast resistor, but am still getting the same stumble under load while accelerating. Which bring me back to my question of could it be my alternator not being able to supply enough current to the 40,000 volt Pertonix coil? Im running out of things to replace.

It's probably not the alternator, unless the voltage is decaying. Did you check your timing w/o load? Is the advance working? If the advance isn't working, you may be able to work around it by advancing the static timing a couple of degrees.

By the way, I wasn't sure whether or not you could wait on the mounting plate. I might be able to get to my distributor swap in three weeks.

My advance is working. This stumbling under load is driving me crazy.

New cap, wires, dizzy, rotor, coil, pertronix ignition, Ztherapy carbs, ect...

I am at a total loss. The only thing I can think of now is that the ohm resistance might not be correct, since it's just a generic over the counter on from the auto parts store, and not a Datsun one. I'm still trying to figure the correlation between high rpm stumbling and the ballast resistor anyway.

I have an extra 73 distributor. It has the plate as well dual points. It feels solid and tight. jlp

What's the advantage of dual points? Would running dual points offer an advantage over the Pertronix ignition? I'm willing to try anything at this point. Including another dizzy using dual points.

What's the advantage of dual points? Would running dual points offer an advantage over the Pertronix ignition? I'm willing to try anything at this point. Including another dizzy using dual points.

Can someone else weigh in on this. I am not sure what the advantage was of dual points but I believe they were considered superior to the single point distributors. jlp

I didn't think there was an advantage, they where just a stepping stone to "reluctor" style distributor's.

In any case, they didn't hang around for long, just like flat tops.

Little point in changing over, sure this is a electrical problem and not fuel related?

I'm wondering if it's fuel, too.

Don't think it's carbs, have a brand new set from Ztherapy. 3 turns out, floats ajusted spot on. Could it be I have a non standard ballast resistor? Although I'm still not sure how any ballast resistor would have anything to do with high RPM running.

But it could be fuel delivery.

Fuel pump, restriction in pipe before carbs etc.

If your fuel pump can't keep up then you're going to starve of fuel.

All the ballast resistor does is to limit voltage to the coil after start up.

The intention is to drop coil voltage to 8-10 volts (someone will correct me on this as I'm writing off the top of my head) after providing full volts for the start up.

The worst that could happen is to burn the coil out, this doesn't appear to be your problem either.

Good luck, we're all waiting for the solution.