This is a 1974 stock 260Z with twin SU's and she is now getting good fuel to the bowls and starts easily and idles relatively smooth. I will sort out the cover leak and get one

on line I hope. The domes were low on ATF and I may be very close on the timing mark.

Perhaps the pickup for the electronic ignition is a little off also but we a close. Perhaps

tonight or tomorrow but at least we can move her around easier in the drivewy. Anyone

have a front timing cover and a set of headers?

If the cover is not cracked or broken, gaskets may be all you need to stop the leak.

Headers do not give the increase of power for the price, but people do say, 'oh wow, it has headers.' Swap will include a new intake-exhaust gasket as it is a shared gasket.

Bonzi Lon

My repaired timing cover is bone dry,the leaks came from the fuel pump and inspection plate for the chain. Guess since I have smooth accel on light throttle and she backfires on hard

accel my timing is still off. I can pull the oil pump and reposition the dizzy to try to improve

the timing. She starts fine now but I'll replace the starter and cables for good measure and

if this all works she get sanded down and ready for paint.

I have a theory: the car starts but I see no fuel in the filters at the carbs. I pulled the pump off the engine a worked it manually......nothing. Crud is still in the tank and that

is deminishing the flow through the rear pump and so on downstream. When I get my

timing light if the setting is close I will know that she has fuel starvation and the tank

will come out for thorough cleaning. When she had a consistent fuel flow in the past

she sailed uphill and on the highway. I can still paint the car while the tank is out and

replace all the lines and filters.

if anyone is still viewing my posting I hooked up the timing light ans she was at 20 degrees so I pulled the vacuum line and moved the dizzy back. She is at 7 degrees BTDC with 18 inches

of steady vacuum and no bacfiring on accel. However the fuel bowls are getting trickles into

them and not filling. We are pulling the tank for cleaning and repairing the filler neck leak and

installing the Holley pump without the mechanical. She gets paint Nissan red

My 78 280Z is doing some of the same things. Back fires hard on acceleration funky idle too. It doesn't stall though, but I also think my clutch is slipping and my injectors are clogged because while driving, it likes to just stop accelerating as if it is no longer getting fuel. .

This car is starting first time no throttle applied on fumes because only a trickle is getting to the carbs. Tomorrow

the tank comes down for cleaning and to look at a leak

from the filler pipe. I will install the Holley pump and toss

the pulsing pump and redo all the lines. That should have

her back on the road soon.

well took the electric pump out jumped into the mechanical and no change on hard accel. Filters in front at both carbs still not filling up. Maybe cleaning the tank and installing the Holley pump will do the trick. We are removing trim and exterior panels and sanding her now.

Fuel tank is cleaned and blown dry and exterior was primed and painted so that is ready to reinstall today. The local marine store had the filler hoses and caps for the other tubes on the tank. Should have everything back in place later and with gas she should start. Now we will see if the single mechanical pump does the job.

Wrestled the fuel tank back in with some new inlet hosing and fitted it to the plastic piece from the top. Not much margin for error slight kink coming up from the tank. I capped all the tubes except the outlet and drilled a hole in the cap for venting. Both fuel bowls are getting fuel but she seems rough. I think my reman brake booster is the culprit. Mushy pedal and engine rpm goes up when it is pressed. We will attach the wires to the sender and start sanding and filling the body. Maybe a Holley is still in the future but for now the body work.

The Z starts perfectly and is getting fuel to both carbs but the engine has a chirp in the top end. The exhaust

valves on both ends are quiet so it seems to be in the center. I noticed that the cam lobes are scuffed quite

a bit. It happens as the engine gets warmer and I did

a cold adjust before hand. The oil is very dirty and also

dilutted plus the back end of the spray bar is missing. I

guess I will readjust as many as I can and hope for the

best......................Any takers

Thanks to those who viewed my pics and also those who gave suggestions. I am turning my focus to the

body and paint work. There are still some small things

that need attention so I hope that I have better days

ahead.