Jump to content
Email-only Log-Ins Coming in December ×

IGNORED

1970 240Z carpet kit


chachacourt

Recommended Posts


There is/was a kit available that had two extra rectangular pieces to fit under the seat between the front and rear seat mounts. I have that set and all those pieces are are rectangular pieces of carpet. They do "add" to the interior in making it a bit quieter. As to where they came from, alas, I can't help you. I bought my set used from someone on e-bay who had bought the cut pile set and did not like it (it wasn't the OEM style) and he decided to swap the set just a few months after buying it. My gain for his losss.

FWIW

E

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Kal,

I just had a problem understanding why the carpet kit was just floor mats. The guy working on the car kept telling me that I purchased the wrong kit. He also could not understand why the description of the black sill plate states that it is used to hold down the carpet but there is no carpet to hold down. He also think that just the carpet mats not enough to insulates the car from noises and heat but no biggie from all the response I got the car will be as is until the future. I am now concentrating on getting it out of the shop. will deal with that issue just leisure time. Thanks a lot all of you for clarification because I even called thezstore about the kit I bought from them but they said the same that it how its suppose to be.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am installing exactly the same on a resto. For sound insulation I will use either peel and seal (Home Depot roofing section) and/or foil backed bubble wrap (Duct Insulation Wrap).

Here is a sample of peel and seal:

143584d1269057873-dynamat-alternative-peel-n-seal-peel-n-seal2.jpg

Here is what the duct insulation bubble foil looks like: reflective_insulation.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I cannot speak to the peel-and-stick but be cautious in using bubble foil. It will break down from heat over time and it will crush everywhere you apply any weight.

An option I located and used is 1/4" closed-cell polyethelene foil. It will not break down or crush, and it provides a R-factor of 15.7 and noise reduction of 19dBA. The product name is Prodex, I bought it from this site:

http://www.insulation4less.com/Default.aspx

Here are a couple of shots of my interior. I used 3M spray adhesive to install it.

Jim

post-22303-14150814928093_thumb.jpg

post-22303-14150814928395_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Hey this is amazing. I wish I knew about it a few months ago. I am going to show my guy your pctures and see if we can at least do the floors, underneath the seats and behind the seats and trunk. Great stuff, looks good. Believe me, I am impressed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm about ready to give up on you kids. It's a 30+ yr old sports car. Show some respect for what it was. It was built with floor mats for carpet, it had 14" wheels not 20's; The car has a light weight frame and body that was never ment for 600 hp twin turbo what evers. Sure you can mod it but to what end. I see these ridiculous posts about slamming it to the ground and dropping in motor so you can do around 200 mph all based on a car that someone got for 400 bucks. A total rust bucket on top of that. And then you wonder why your hacked up idea of the ultimate street racer will only get you 5 grand on Ebay, if that, when you have 25 g's in it. You know why a 64 Ferrari is worth $200,000 , it's because the owner kept it as a 64 Ferrari and didn't try to build in into an Enzo. I saw an early Ferrari on Ebay not to long ago and the Bozo who owned it had a SBC in it, everything else was nice on the car. He wanted around 20 grand for it and it was not bringing bids. Tell you anything. If you have to build it, do a proper build. If you want a race car then build a race car for the race track. I would like to see these cars start to become real collector cars, but it's not going to happen if the car isn't treated as a real collector car. Sorry for that rant, must have been a bad week to read posts on the boards.

  • Agree 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If, unlike Nissan, you first apply some rust-protecting paint, then NO, you shouldn't have any problem.

I qualify that shouldn't because rust protecting paint is only as good as the rust preventing process you did before paint. Too many people clean off the paint, tar, primer etc, shoot it with Rust-O-Leum and call it permanently rust-proofed. While that's a good basic protection, it's not the forever type of protection (by the way, there is no PERMANENT rust-proofing).

There are various products out there, Zero Rust, Rust Mort, Rust Bullet, POR, to name but a few. Some depend heavily on preparation some depend on multiple coatings, some depend on top-coats, but ALL of them are at best temporary. The trick is to find and use the one with the LONGEST service life. Which one will usually depend on money and your willingness to do more than a simple vacuum and paint.

But, if you apply a good rust-protectant, after a good rust-preventative process and you take care not to encapsulate water / moisture between the covering and the floor, you should be good for years.

FWIW

E

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My car is original as it gets. The things that I changed are that I added a body kit. I also painted the car the Lambo yellow and its because yellow is my favorite color and i wanted that type of yellow. Somehow, I got confused about the carpet kit and the guy who is working on the car for me kept telling me that I bought the wrong kit. After bringing this issue here and calling Thezstore; I found out that my mechanic is wrong. True, the car is 40 years old but by having discussions gives many options to anyone who would like to do different things. I personally like the car the way it is. I did not know what to do with the black sill plate until bringing this issue here for discussion because Ebay, Thezstore and and other sites states that it is for holding the carpet down. My mechanic and I got confused about it until now. Tks guys.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here is link to the photos of my floor pan refurb. As our moderator says, it is all in the prep. I used the POR-15 products to clean, neutralize, then protect the exposed metal. I had some oil-based paint tinted to match the car and applied that for the final finish - not that any of it will be visible after the insulation went down and the carpet will finish it off. But... at least I know it looks nice down there.

http://s572.photobucket.com/albums/ss168/jfarnett986/2%20Floorpan%20Refurb/

Jim

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.