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strut/ spring upgrade, their number is up, need more advice...........


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Ok, so after months of research, asking questions and generally pissing people off, (around here) I finally went and done it. I ordered my springs and adjuster sleeves for all 4 corners.

So looking at the FSM, I see all the little widgets and gizmos involved in the strut assembly. So my question is, what all of them should be replaced in the referb?

Obviously, some would simply say all. I would think things like the gland nut which came with the new struts would be a gimmi, but what about the strut bearing and isolator? What about the bumpers, which do not appear to be there? Or the strut isolators?

Any of you fine people that have gone with adjuster sleeves like the G.C.'s, please let me know what you ran into, and what I should look for. Thanks in advance, The 5th.

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Not sure what "adjuster sleeves" are? Is this the coil over seats and threaded tube for modifying stock struts?

For a stock Z, I would recommend the following for the job:

1. Bearing grease

2. Front strut top bearings

3. 240z strut insulators for lowering the car (if you have a 280z).. you may wish to

4. Thin after market shock piston bellows and fastening hardware (the kyb bellows do not fit right)

5. kyb or tokico struts and suitable springs.

6. rust inhibitor and cool paint

7. Poly bumpstops

You may want to upgrade some of the control arm bushings when you are doing the job as well as refresh the brakes (pads, bleed, lube), and maybe repack the front wheel bearings.

Edited by Blue
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I read that one too.

My reasons are a combo of looks and street performance, along side the fact that the PO used a bunch of those aluminum spring spreaders to compensate (presumably, he was dead by the time I got my hands on the car) for the worn out springs. I say this because I can see 2 sets of wear marks on the strut shafts, which are worn out stock stuff. (I think they are stock, but know they are worn out)

I have a set of N.O.S. Builstiens, still in the box, that I got from a friend that used to race a 73 240Z. He says they are not the best strut by todays standards, but are still a great strut nontheless.

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No sectioning is required, but I am removing the spring perch and adding weld rings although they are not required. (yea right) The rapture got in the way of this weekends planned install in the form of 3 acres of foot tall grass, took like 10 hours over two days to mow it.

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yikes! Duty calls sometimes.

If you're cleaning off the spring perch, might I suggest the flapper sanding wheels for grinders. They won't dig in like a normal grinding wheel can and they make short work of remnants. I used the grinding wheel to cut the perch. I could see where I started to break through the steel and moved around the tube. Once the perch steel is sufficiently thin, I knocked it loose with a ball peen dead blow (my BFH)

Some people also use the remnants (ring) of the spring perch to support the threaded sleeve.

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Using The pearch remnent to support the sleeve would be sweet, I HOPE that works out. BTW the flap disks rule, I bought 3 fresh disks last week just for this job. I'll use the plasma cutter to rough the perch out and clean it off with the disks.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I put the cozmo coilovers and struts on the front today. I set everything to stock ride height till I get a feel for the travle and stiffness of the new parts. Won't get to the back till next week, no time. I must say, I am very impressed with the quality of the parts, both fit and finish. I left the spring perches on for now so I can change the springs if I don't like the cozmo stuff.

So it's off for a test drive, I will report back later.

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Man, I spent the whole day behind the wheel Sunday, WHAT A DIFFERENCE! The body roll is almost non existant in normal to sportie cornering, still noticable in really hard curves, but much better. The ride is harder but not harsh. There is almost no front end drive under braking. I couldnt really beat the car as hard as I wanted to, as the rear tires still rub on big bumps, but the body roll tire rub in turns is gone. I can't waite to do the rears this weekend.

The install was not hard at all, actually easier than just replacing the struts. No spring compression necessary to reassemble the strut, and I was pleased/lucky that all the bushings and ball joints were tight and in excellent condition. (As it should be on a low milage car) I'll fill in the blanks and do some before and after pics once the back end is done and the ride height is adjusted next week.

All I can say is, so far I am impressed.

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