240260280z Posted May 17, 2011 Share #1 Posted May 17, 2011 (edited) - Used a pre-made kit from ebay link and a 25' spool of 3/16" coated hard line from NAPA. - ebay kit was just unions and variety of off-the-shelf line sections in standard lengths but actually nice quality line. - did not want to use the unions so for the long run I used one piece of hard line and flared ends. - pre-made kit tube still needed to be cut and flared to optimize length. - used new U clips and flex line washer/stopper parts from Black Dragon - tried two double flare kits Autozone $30 was junk, I did ~20 practice and actual attempts but none were good. The tool had inherent manufacturing flaws. I was so disappointed that I designed a new tool. (TBA). I bought a 2nd flare tool from Princess Auto (Canada's Harbour Freight equivalent... not a shop in San Fransisco ). It worked great. bad kit: good kit: http://www.princessauto.com/workshop/hand-tools/trade-tools/electrical/2990245-double-flare-tool-kit - I drilled out and tapped all individual line clamp mounts in frame to larger M5 X 0.8 and replaced with stainless steel hardware and Napa rubber covered 1/4" brake line clamps/clips. - Cleaned undercoating and refreshed brass "T" and pressure regulator in rear of brake system. - Brake line bender from Eastwood worked fine. I found that Princess Auto now sells a similar but only 3/16" - Murphy's Law... can't find the pressure loss switch/junction that I bagged when I stripped the car... now begging from local car club friends here in NS Clubs are great! Edited May 17, 2011 by Blue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zKars Posted May 17, 2011 Share #2 Posted May 17, 2011 Nice work. Brake line flare kits are a crap shoot at best. I love the stuff from fedhillusa.com. their brake line is soft enough to form the S curve on the front brakes almost by hand and their flare machine is incredible.I have that junction block if you need one. Let me know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patcon Posted May 17, 2011 Share #3 Posted May 17, 2011 I have used Fedhill before too and it is very nice line. Because it is so soft sometimes it is hard to make your lines nice and straight, but that also seems to make it flair easier. I would have preferred to use the fedhill flairing tool. It is not cheap to buy but they have a rental plan...http://store.fedhillusa.com/flaringtools.aspxThay were very helpfull and easy to deal with.Charles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pjoe Posted May 18, 2011 Share #4 Posted May 18, 2011 I did the same thing on mine. All new hard lines. The line that runs from the wheel cylinder to the flexible line mounting bracket was a bitch because its such a tight bend and you still have to get the nut on it. Got it done though. Hopefully I will see if it leaks in a month or so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveR Posted December 9, 2015 Share #5 Posted December 9, 2015 Bumping for a good thread, and my man Blue who has popped up on every little project I have researched for the future. I am interested in what the longest run of a single piece of tubing is. Napa sells at longest 72" which is definitely not long enough for the front to back single run, but I would prefer to use straight/coated tubing so the lines are as clean as possible. Of course if my current lines are okay I will shelf the project for a while, but nice to know it can be done without buying expensive replacement kits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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