Hey all,

My 76 280z is currently a wiring hack job, And im requesting a picture of where the red and green dizzy wires go. (im assuming this connects to the terminal block bolted next to the coil?)

Next i need to know how the coil is supposed to be wired to the ballast resistor, specifically the 2 connectors where the condenser connects, i don't know where the 2nd wire goes

I understand these all lead to the ignition block, but i cant figure out how they attach in the engine bay chassis wiring

Edited May 22, 201113 yr by robftw

http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html

Section EE

Rob

Here's a photo from my 76.

Dave Ruiz

All here: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributorrebuild/index.html

Blue, that link show an E12-80 setup so it wouldn't apply to a 76......

Sorry, I thought I had the 76 stock and upgrade details in the tech tip.

Here is the appropriate section of the 76 schematic that I cleaned up (see attachment)

It is close to the 77:

and you can see 77 details here: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html

Note the similarities in the coil wiring.... and ballast wiring:

Edited May 23, 201113 yr by Blue

Thank you this is what i was looking for, below is where i am at now. I think the yellow wire connects to the thermostat somewhere, its the only other matching wire in the engine bay. (in that area)

the other unkown plug is the box in the picture, the FSM says it goes back to engine harness 1, but i dont see where..

And finally, the small condenser. I see it loops back into the same wire it came from, but i am stuck... this is what mine looks like i have a grand total of 3 of these condensers with different types of bullet / flat connectors at the ends.

i should mention, the other condenser i have is a blue/black wired one with a bullet connector on the end

The yellow wire goes to the BCDD. The plug that you have labeled Harness 1 plugs in to a another plug with a red, white and yellow wire that appear to go up to the sensors in the thermostat housing. On my car that condenser plug connects to a black wire that is grounded to a distributor mounting bolt. My car does not appear to have been messed with much, but I'm not sure why Datsun felt the need for a separate long wire all the way to that point, but that's where it goes.

Looks like im missing that smaller harness. That really sucks i don't see any on ebay either

Edit: after looking at the wiring diagram, do i really even need the following?

1. EGR cut solenoid (my EGR is disabled)

2. Thermal transmitter - I can make a wire to the harness for this

3. Vacuum switch solenoid - Dont know what this looks like, i assume its a fuel saving feature since its for MT only, can i get by without it for now?

4. BCDD wire, i have this but don't know what the BCDD looks like (Yes ive tried google) is it on the bottom of the intake manifold? i dont have my engine in front of me..

5. As for the water temp switch, can i splice the wire in to the missing harness

Edited May 23, 201113 yr by robftw

With a wiring diagram you should be able to determine where those three wires connect. Saridout made up a full color PDF diagram for 1976, search his name on this site if you don't have it already.

The vacuum switch solenoid allows vacuum to the vacuum advance canister on the distributor in fourth gear only. It seems to be for emissions, apparently advanced timing is dirtier than retarded. I bypassed mine so I get vacuum advance in all gears (we run E10 in Oregon so I figure I'm breaking even on pollution).

The BCDD is that weird looking thing on the bottom of the throttle body,with the rubber cap. The yellow wire supplies power to a solenoid when the ECU tells it to.

The water temp switch (not sensor) tells the ignition module when to use the other pickup in the distributor to advance timing by ~6 degrees. This appears to be to keep the idle speed up when cold. When the engine gets warm it switches back the the retarded pickup. I don't have the stock module so I don't use the switch anymore. In between the time that the AAR closes and the engine gets up to full temperature I will get a pretty low idle sometimes. If you still have the stock ignition module (I don't) and 4 speed transmission, with fourth gear switch (mine's gone), and distributor with two pickup coils (I'm down to one pickup myself), you could get yours to work correctly.

One thing i completely forgot to mention is the engine is from a 77