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1

Disconnect spark plug wires and fold back out of the way.

2

Remove spark plugs.

3

Disconnect fuel lines (send and return) at fuel rail near front of the head.

Observe all high pressure fuel safety precautions.

4

Disconnect valve cover vent hose.

5

Remove valve cover.

6

Put transmission in neutral.

7

Use short 27mm socket to turn engine at crank. (when viewed from standing in front of car, turn crank clock wise)

8

Turn until timing mark on damper is lined up with "0" mark on timing gauge. This is top dead centre *

9

In cylinder #1 at front on engine, the piston top should now be visible through spark plug hole (flashlight or pokey screw diver can verify)

10

Since the piston #1 can be at its highest position two times in the 4 cycles of the engine, we need to make sure the head's cam and piston is at the top of the compression stroke rather than at the top of the exhaust stroke. An easy way to tell is by looking at the cam lobes for cylinder 1. They should both be upward.

Edited May 25, 201113 yr by Blue

11

Piston #1 is at TDC.

12

Disconnect vacuum hose to brake booster.

13

Disconnect wiring harness to intake (fuel injectors, throttle valve switch, ground, sensors, etc.) and fold back out of the way.

14

Disconnect ducting to throttle valve.

15

Disconnect vacuum lines to throttle valve.

16

Disconnect vacuum lines to intake.

17

Disconnect throttle linkage.

18

Remove 4 upper bolts holding intake to head.

19

Upper intake bolts and size differences.

20

Disconnect PCV hose to intake (under manifold).

21

Underneath intake manifold are nuts and washers that secure both the intake and exhaust manifold. Remove these common nuts and washers. My Z has a header so it looks different from stock in these photos. Prepping the hardware with penetrating oil the day before helps ensure that nothing breaks. You can wrap your arms around the manifolds and attack these nuts from underneath with just small hand tools.

22

2nd verse same as the first

23

ditto

24

This is intake runner #6. The photo is 180degrees rotated. Don't drink and document.

25

Disconnect fuel rail from head at front of head.

26

Disconnect fuel rail from head at front passenger side of head.

27

Double check that nothing will snag then pull off the intake manifold

28

Loosen nuts and remove exhaust manifold.

29

Loosen nuts and remove exhaust manifold.

30

Loosen nuts and remove exhaust manifold.

DRAIN COOLANT AT RAD

31

Disconnect coolant lines to head.

32

Disconnect coolant lines to head. (note, my AAR coolant lines have been removed).

33

Remove thermostat.

34

Remove 2 small bolts at front of head.

35

Remove oil bar and bolts. Careful with the gaskets. Note later z's have internal cam oiling.

36

Get a tool to hold back the timing chain tensioner. Here is the famous "Barbie Hockey Stick" that all of us manly Canadians use and store in our Barbie accessory cases. I'm lumberjack and I'm OK.

37

Timing tensioner tool in place.

38

Showing timing at position #3 on my Z, yours may be 1, 2, or 3.

39

Use solvent to remove oil then paint the link that meshes with the #3 (1 or 2) dimple on the cam sprocket ~ 2pm. This reference is needed when reinstalling the head.

40

Hold cam at correct location (where the two bumps are cast) then remove cam sprocket bolts, washer, sprocket, etc.

Edited June 27, 201410 yr by Blue

41

Place chain in timing cover area.

42

Remove head bolts and pull head. Loosen and remove head bolts from outer bolts towards inner evenly from both ends of the head.

43

Done.

I'd like to add a step 37.5 Blue. Once the chain is wedged, stuff a clean rag around the chain so that nothing can drop down into the front cover. It's a big hole that attracts stray parts. If something drops down there, it's a big job to retrieve it. DAMHIK.

Step 42.......Don't forget the 2 little "hiding" bolts that attach the head to the front cover. Super job BLUE.....you should write a factory service manual....you'd sell a million!

nice guide! i've been following it step by step but i'm stuck on what the head bolt sequence should be when i put the head back on?

Start in the center and work your way out and be sure to tighten in three steps. Download the FSM from www.xenons30.com for the sequence and three torque steps. I've heard that the '77 FSM isn't working right on xenon's site, so pick the '76 or '78. The engine mechanical stuff is all the same.

Just followed this step by step with carbed l28 and it was a breeze.....

plus a great learning day....

thanks a million....much appreciated