Jump to content
We Need Your Help! ×

IGNORED

New engine


Diseazd

Recommended Posts

Thats a neat flex pipe Jeff. It would be interesting to see how it holds up. I agree with you on the dial indicator. You will regret going cheap on it, I did. Ended up tossing it in the garbage and spending the extra for a good Mitutoyo and magnetic foot.

Chas

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Isky sends a complete instruction sheet on finding true top dead center as well as degreeing a camshaft with each of their regrinds. Their precision ground cams are so precise that you can use the stock locating holes (according to them). I need to get those items anyway......who sells em?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guy, you can get everything at Grainger or on Amazon (what CAN'T you get on Amazon???). I got my Mitutoyo about 25 years ago. The only regret is that almost all of them read 0 - .5" and the cams have roughly a 0.450" lift, so it takes a lot of fiddling to get both the zero and max lift within the range of the indicator. They sell 0 - 1" range, but the price goes way up. Expect to pay over $200 for a 0 - .5" and quite a bit more for a 0 - 1". Go with 0.0005" resolution. Of course, you can find something WAY cheaper if you don't go with Mitutoyo. I'm sure Harbor Freight has them for $10 LOL

I think this is the modern equivalent to mine at Grainger for $226.50. MITUTOYO Digimatic Indicator, Battery - Electronic Digital Indicators - 5C711|543-783B - Grainger Industrial Supply

The 0 - 1" jumps to $485.25. MITUTOYO Electronic Indicator, 0-1 In, Flat Back - Electronic Digital Indicators - 4GPY4|543-476B - Grainger Industrial Supply

Here is a magnetic base by Mitutoyo for $201.50. MITUTOYO Magnetic Base - Indicator Holders, Bases, and Stands - 22N461|7033B - Grainger Industrial Supply

The degree wheels can be found anywhere, but get a large one. The one I made is 16" diameter and it isn't too big. Summit Racing sells every size and brand.

Edited by Jeff G 78
Typo
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Jeff......I've never timed a cam before, so not sure where you contact the lifter. Also, since you are just ckecking number one at .050", isn't the 0 to .5" indicator good enough to time the cam? How about finding TDC with the head off? How much travel would you need in the dial indicator to locate exact TDC? BTW, back to the thread.....I picked up the block and pistons yesterday, so I should be moving on with my build shortly. Thanks Guy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guy, the indicator goes on the valve spring cap and you need to go through the full lift, so .5" range is just barely enough, but I find myself moving it at least 4 or 5 times until it doesn't over travel at one end or the other. You need a bit of extra travel at both the top and bottom of the stroke, so 0.5" range minus cam lift at zero lash (0.460" in my case) is only 0.04" and then divide that by 2 and you end up with only 0.02" to work with at each end of the indicator stroke. Does that make sense?

To find TDC with the head off would be simple with a dial indicator. When it comes time, I'll walk you through it rather than go into the details now.

Make sure you take lots of pics and keep us posted on the engine build.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Getting started on the build.....scrubbed out the block.....masked, inserted the plastic freeze plugs I got from Eiji. Cleaned out the head stud holes, attached an old front cover,acid etched primered, then Datsun blue.....looking good!

post-14126-14150824698309_thumb.jpg

The block was cleaned and bored .040 inches before painting....

post-14126-14150824696562_thumb.jpg

post-14126-14150824697207_thumb.jpg

post-14126-14150824697759_thumb.jpg

Edited by Diseazd
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's what I did last night. This was my first solo engine install. I've always at least had a spotter to watch the other side and help guide the engine into position.

Here's the flex pipe on the end of the collector. You can see how it helps the alignment between the header and the exhaust pipe. I also added heat shielding to the tunnel to help keep my feet cool. :cool:

post-7975-14150824699377_thumb.jpg

I should have it running later today. :bunny:

post-7975-14150824698867_thumb.jpg

post-7975-14150824699805_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Both are looking great! Hey Guy - how many engines/heads have you done? Whats your favorite one/combo? Are we going to see some triples ever? I know there are challanges with the Webers but my Mikuni's from Wolf Creek have been a blast - if you try it, it will put a big ole' Virginia grin on your face!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mitchell.....I think this is my favorite combo......I love how smooth the package is. I really don't know how many engine/heads I've done...counting 510's, I'd guess 20. I love building these little monsters. I really don't have the patience to futz with the triples, and the SU's give me all the rip I need. I'll never install less than a Stage III cam however.......good to hear from you....Regards. Guy

Edited by Diseazd
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 1 Anonymous, 781 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.