Electrical problems

[Koss]

Two days ago I finally picked up my car from the port. Upon arrival the battery was dead. This was no surprise to me, since I knew the battery wasn't too good.

The trouble started when I got the car home. When charging the batteries, I accidentally connected the battery charger wrong way around. Fore some reason the cables going from the negative side was red, and the positive cable was black. I therefor automatically hooked it up the wrong way around.

After a couple of minutes the battery chargers thermal fuse shut it off, and I came to realize my mistake. I connected it the right way and left it to charge. Trouble is when I now try turning the key, nothing happens. I have no electricity what so ever. No lights no nothing.

I bought a new battery, since the old one was bad, and to eliminate that as a problem.

And I have done some searching around. My guess so far is a bad fusible link. Which I some how haven't been able to locate. So if any of you have a good picture, please do post it.

My other guess is the amp gauge. (I read somewhere the amp gauge was not to fond of reversing the electrics)

I was wondering if any of you have other suggestions.

[EScanlon]

This is where you'll be reminded that it's a good idea to put the year/model of your car in your signature block. That way people don't have to do a bunch of research to identify what year car you have.

I found from your original post that it's a 71, that means it only had ONE fusible link between the Starter Solenoid and the WHITE wire from the Voltage Regulator going to the Fuse Box. Without that one fusible link, the complete electrical system in the car is inert, there is no other circuit that feeds from the battery.

Replace the fusible link, you may have to order it as the ends connect directly to the car's electrical harness, and you should be ok to go.

If it were your Ammeter that fried, but NOT the fusible link, you'd have lights and other accessories that operate separate from the ignition circuit, but you wouldn't be able to start or run the car.

FWIW

E

[Koss]

If you click "garage" on the left, it will say "1971 Datsun 240z". But I'll put it in my signature as well. =)

Thanks for the information. I'll check it out.

[EScanlon]

The "Garage" is a new item to this version of the software.

Some of us have been here for two or three software upgrades and might miss that since most everyone else has their cars in their signature area. Either that or people post their model within the post.

Just trying to help you get an answer.

E

[Koss]

I appreciate the help a lot.

I was finally able to find the fusible link today. It was hidden under a lot of tape. And it seems like it has been replaced by a regular cable awhile back. The rubber around it was partially melted away.

I will replace it with a regular cable and a fuse tomorrow, as today is a public holiday in Norway, which means the stores a not open.

What worries me though is the fact that the continuity tester on my multimeter tells me there is a connection between the ends of the "fusible link".

[Koss]

The Fusible link.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/markusaj/5830149559/" title="_DSC1460-1 by MarkusAJ, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3423/5830149559_66ca14abf6_z.jpg" width="640" height="425" alt="_DSC1460-1"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/markusaj/5830152365/" title="_DSC1461-1 by MarkusAJ, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3468/5830152365_ffefca22ec_z.jpg" width="425" height="640" alt="_DSC1461-1"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/markusaj/5830154563/" title="_DSC1462-1 by MarkusAJ, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2758/5830154563_9239a16a1f_z.jpg" width="640" height="425" alt="_DSC1462-1"></a>

[EScanlon]

Arghh, that's downright ugly.

Probably replaced that way due to the special connector that Nissan put on the original and the PO (Prior Owner, although in this case IPO: ID-10- T Prior Owner) couldn't /didn't find a proper replacement and he (hopefully) just spliced in a length of fusible link wire.

Check into a proper fusible link wire (it's not standard cabling) or at least look into Maxi-Fuses. Remember that this one little fusible link takes ALL of the vehicle's amperage through it, it's not just a wire with a fuse.

E

[grantf]

that is not a fusible link. That wire should lead to the fusible link block. The other "big fat wire" should go to the positive side of you're battery.

Edited June 14, 2011 by grantf

[grantf]

:stupid:Oopps the 240's are way different just checked a 73 FSM. there should be a fusible link there, my bad, please forgive. do you have continuity between the bad wire and the fuse block?

Edited June 14, 2011 by grantf

[Koss]

For now at least, I'll splice in a maxi fuse due to the fact that getting a fusible link from the US will take about 2 weeks.

Yes I actually have continuity all the way from the cable shoe to the fuse block

[Koss]

I have good news and bad news. I have changed the fusible link, the spliced in wire turned out to be labeled as a fusible one. I changes it for a maxifuse.

The bad news is the car still does not have any electricity.

[Koss]

The problem turned out to be the ammeter.

Instead of ripping out the dash, I bypassed it by inserting a wire from the battery to the alternator. Solved the problem

Thanks for the help!