need help my 1972 z will not start

[Jeremy Mizerak]

i have a 1972 240 z with a 2.6 and a five speed trans in it okay i hope you all can help me so i had the moter running i just did the tune up ie 'spark plugs cap rotter coil weirs full filter air filter' .. everything was running smooth then i put it in reverse got out to the street then i put it in to first them it just died on me .. i have fuel going to the carb's and all but i don't know what hack happened to the z ....... is there a relay fuse or something that i might have blown or something that i am missing can you all let me know what you all might think it is?????..... think you

[240260280z]

do you have spark at plugs?

[Jeremy Mizerak]

not even getting one spark

[240260280z]

OK, so no spark after the distributor. Now check to see if there is spark before the distributor:

1. Pull the short HV wire at centre of the distributor.

2. Place the open end of this wire up near one of the 3 bolts on the strut tower. Have the metal contact ~ 1/4" or less from one of the nuts on the strut tower.

3. Crank the car and you should see a spark jump.

Results:

If you have a spark that means ignition (breaker/points and coil) are ok and the problem is most likely distributor cap, rotor, or plug wires

If you do not have a spark then the problem is coil or breaker/points or power to ignition system.

Edited June 19, 2011 by Blue

[Bonzi Lon]

What about the fuseable link at the starter?

Branson Z-Fest this year, pristine restored Z, no power, checked all culprits, until he found he had bumped the link loose while cleaning but not disconnected.

Bonzi Lon

[Reverend]

double that, it could be also bad ballast resistor (?)

[Jeremy Mizerak]

what dose it look like???

[Jeremy Mizerak]

OK, so no spark after the distributor. Now check to see if there is spark before the distributor:

1. Pull the short HV wire at centre of the distributor.

2. Place the open end of this wire up near one of the 3 bolts on the strut tower. Have the metal contact ~ 1/4" or less from one of the nuts on the strut tower.

3. Crank the car and you should see a spark jump.

Results:

If you have a spark that means ignition (breaker/points and coil) are ok and the problem is most likely distributor cap, rotor, or plug wires

If you do not have a spark then the problem is coil or breaker/points or power to ignition system.

so i did all of that and nothing . and just replast the ballast resistor ...what els can i do ??

[240260280z]

The fusible link the other chaps are referring to is the white wire to the starter in this picture

You should check to see if you have 12V at the coil positive terminal with the key on.

[Jeremy Mizerak]

ok so i check t all of those wires they are all good ' i toke off the wire harness raping tape all of that is good 'i need to re ripe it anyway's ' there are no kinks split's or barn't wires either' so i detach-et the positive wire to the ballast resistor and tapt it on my tongue to see it there was currant going threw it and there is so i now don't know what els to do

[71Nissan240Z]

A good way to kill yourself is putting your mouth on ignition parts in your car. I would never ever do that even if the car isnt running. You should always use a cheap multimeter atleast to test for voltage, they are usually pretty cheap now a days and it will pay for itself instead of buying random fixes and wasting your money. You probably got a plug wire mixed up with another one somewhere, make sure your firing order is correct on the distributor to the cylinders.

Edited June 21, 2011 by 71Nissan240Z

[LeonV]

Natural selection at its finest...