Engine hook broke off what now?

[Threehz]

Well I've finally gotten to the long awaited step of removing my engine! We hooked up the engine hoist and started pulling it out, while trying to seperate it from the tranny the rear driver side "loop" on the engine for attaching the hoist broke off and nearly took one of my fingers with it haha.

On a less funny note how should I remove the engine now?

It's in a rather precurious position, it's still hooked on to the loop at the passenger front side of the engine and now the engine is hanging lopsided and the driver side engine mount isn't even aligned with where it rests, it's forward and low which is not good, so i can't lower it back down correctly...

Anyhow any help would be very much appreciated!

thanks guys!

[240260280z]

[Threehz]

Inspiring, however what does it mean?

[240260280z]

[Threehz]

Ok that's much better, I'd just like to know what are the most stable parts of the engine? What parts can I safely hook and pull it up by?

[240260280z]

Try the exhaust manifold.

I have read that some have pulled valve cover and chained to cam but I would not do this unless I planned to use a new head.

Some of the upper bolts on the bell housing could also be used for read hoist point.

[240260280z]

Try the exhaust manifold.

I have read that some have pulled valve cover and chained to cam but I would not do this unless I planned to use a new head.

Some of the upper bolts on the bell housing could also be used for read hoist point.

[Threehz]

Ahhh I wonder if bolting the chain to the engine from where the tranny was bolted to it would damage the bolt, tap or engine hmmm. Exhaust manifold definitely seems sturdy, I think I'll somehow loop up that or the whole back end of the engine with this cable I have lying around.

Thanks for the tips Blue!

[cygnusx1]

Take out the rearmost exhaust stud and put in a long bolt, OR just slip a chain link over the stud, and secure it with a thick washer and a nut. I always do it that way. Of course this assumes that the tap hole in the head is in good order. make sure you get at least 3/4" of threads into the aluminum.

Edited June 20, 2011 by cygnusx1

[texasz]

I've done the rear exhaust bolt method before, in fact just two weeks ago.

I've also taken a chain (a trucker's chain used for towing) and wrapped it around the engine threading it through the open space in BOTH engine mounts to keep is from slipping forward or backwards while removing the engine.

[chaztg]

I'd opt for a strong chain (not a bicycle lock chain) mounted securely to bolts that are more or less driven all they way into threaded bosses on one or more places on the head or more preferable the block. Protect your rocker cover with rags or pieces of cardboard to prevent the chafing from the chain against finished surfaces. Make sure it's all relatively balanced, but with a slight nose-up attitude. If you have a leveler, use it, but will add more height to the final lift-out so it's a trade off, but extremely helpful when shoe horning the sucker back in, where it all comes down to the angle. Also, watch your head...I always have to clonk my noggin on the arm of the hoist at least once when I pull a motor.

[wfl_colorado]

Threehz,

Sorry for you misfortune. I am getting ready to pull my engine and I am wondering if I can use the bracket that holds the AC unit on near the front of the engine as a point to connect the engine hoist. I also assume the bracket near the rear of the engine is also a good point.

Tx,

Bill