Suspension black paint

[Patcon]

I have done some searchng and I remember reading some threads where the poster had used gloss black on the supension pieces with flattener added. I can't find those threads but I was wondering how much flattener they used. The gloss black Nason I have is flattened after being catalyzed and reduced. 1:1 reduced paint to flattener is 100% flat. I don't know how flat the suspension is supposed to be and wanted some advise from those who had done it.

Thanks, Charles

[tlorber]

My advice is to go with a product like POR 15. Some powder coat on suspension, which is nice but much more expensive than a quart of POR.

You will find that if you are driving the car, regular paint (even 2 part) is likely to chip off, at which point gloss/semi-gloss/flat will be the least of your concerns.

[Patcon]

I am not too worried about chipping issues the car will be used carefully. The many Z suspension parts that I have laying around are all 40 or so years old and none of them have any signifigant coorosion. Many of them still have the original black paint that is not nearly as good as the newer catalyzed paints. All of my suspension parts will get epoxy primer then single stage flattened as needed. Just wanted a good starting point for flattening. The car is a total rotisserie restoration. I will deviate in some areas, but many things will be done in a more correct manner. All of the hardware is back from the platers and it is time to start painting and reassembling the supension. Thanks for the idea though...

Thanks, Charles

[Patcon]

Still working on getting the sheen right on the suspension parts. Any help...

Charles

[idoxlr8]

I used Eastwood chassis black and was very happy with how it sprayed and looks.

Used SPI epoxy as the base after bead blasting the parts.

Not sure what to recommend as far as your situation but I can vouch for the Eastwood product. It's produced by Kirker paints.

HTH

Dean

[Patcon]

If I didn't already have a gallon of Nason black, I might look at the Eastwood products but I am a little sour on them from a couple of other products I bought and their lack of customer service. I have a DuPont flattening agent and have cut the catalyst as recommended by the Jobber at the paint store. I am 8 paint : 1/2 catalyst (1 normal) : 1 1/2 flattener with no reducer. That makes the flattener like 15% I think, but doesn't cut the sheen very much. I can still see my reflection in the parts. I would like to get a little closer to the factory sheen because I think it makes the car look a little more classic. Could be obsessive though...

Was hoping someone could get me a little closer on the percentages so I don't have to make 10 test panels.

Charles

[Hardway]

I used Rustoleum satin black straight out of the can, no primer or anything. So far it is holding up great. All depends how far you want to go with the correct amount of sheen.

[Patcon]

That looks pretty good. I am epoxy priming all the parts and then shooting with a catalyzed product. I believe that will be a harder finish. Rattle can would be much easier and faster though. If I had more sense that would be the way I would have gone. I am halfway down this road now so I will see it thru. I shot some test panels yesterday flattened 25% / 35% / 50% / 60% I will probably go with 50% it flattened greatly from 50% to 60%. The 50% still give some reflection ( I can see my face in the reflections but not so glossy like the other samples). More like a semi gloss not quite satin. I need to post some pics when I get a little further.

Charles

[bartsscooterservice]

I'm doing mine now to while rebuilding the suspension parts with new bushings etc.. looks about the same as hardway above, I just use motip high gloss black, and cleaned the parts with a wire brush

[bpilati]

Remember you're not going to treat your Z like the original owner did (carefree), so prepping your car like you will, may be overkill. Powder coating everything like it's got to survive a sandstorm is probably overkill. If it's just to look pretty that's another thing, but is it really necessary? That's something you have to answer in your own mind.

[Hardway]

I agree with BP. You really have to decide what looks good for the amount of effort it will take to achieve it. I have known guys that have restored cars and powdered coated the frame, suspension, brackets, etc. When the car was finished, 90% of it was hidden and would never be seen. Given the amount of time it took to do that and the money it costs, most regretted it. A wire brush or sand blaster and some quality spray can paint will make anything look 10x or 100x better than it was. You can take it a step further and shoot professional level paint with a gun but that alone may be overkill too.

[Z dreams]

I painted my Harley frame 31 years ago with rustoleum primer and black spray can paint. Still looks good after 31 seasons. My 240 is going to getting the same paint job.