kinda new to the site, havent been on much cuz I was kinda a ass to a member

[rpmszcar]

I will be a bit nicer this time around. Well I missed Canby again this year I was painting the Z and was so close. What I wanted to know can anyone give me any tips on changing a clutch on a 1977z never done one and mine went out I hope to fix it this weekend with any luck

[Arne]

Robb, it's not too tough a job if you've ever done it before. If not, well, it could be a learning experience.

But before you drop the transmission out, what exactly are the symptoms? Is it slipping, or is it failing to engage enough to shift? Or does the pedal have no resistance?

Depending on the precise manner in which it "went out", you may have a much simpler job ahead of you.

[rpmszcar]

well the pedal feels okay. I was driving it and every thing was okay then I tried to shift and the only way was with the rpms. at first I thought when I replaced the master maybe I forgot the lock nut. that was all good. I bled the system thinking maybe? when you start the car you can't get into any gear. if you start the car in gear it takes right off no slipping. any thoughts?

[Arne]

You haven't replaced the slave yet? Over the years I've found that replacing one cylinder but not the other is always a good way to prompt the remaining one to fail shortly. I always replace in pairs now.

I'd watch the slave and clutch fork move when someone depresses the pedal. I'm going to guess that the slave is bypassing.

[rpmszcar]

yes I did replace the slave, sorry forgot to say so

[Arne]

If it was all good and then suddenly went bad, and both cylinders are fresh, I'd suspect that maybe the clutch fork had slipped off the ball seat during the work, and then it popped back in place later. Try running through the adjustment procedure for the master pushrod again.

[rpmszcar]

ok i will thanks for the info

[rpmszcar]

damn looks like I get to do my first clutch. could use any info to keep it as painless as possable

[Arne]

1. Put the car on ramps and/or study jack stands, front and rear. You want it at least 12" off the ground. I use ramps up front, and jack stands in the rear so the rear wheel(s) can be turned when needed later.
   
2. Set the parking brake, put the transmission in gear. (Any gear will do.)
   
3. Disconnect the battery.
   
4. Remove the starter.
   
5. Remove the shift lever from inside the car ('72 and newer, or all with Type B transmissions).
   
6. Drain transmission oil.
   
7. Remove driveshaft.
   
8. From beneath the car, unbolt the shift lever. ('70-71 cars with Type A transmissions only.)
   
9. Unbolt slave cylinder and let hang.
   
10. Remove the small bolts at the bottom of the rear engine plate (that screw into the bellhousing).
    
11. Disconnect speedo cable and reverse light wires. Some later cars may have other wires to the transmission, label and disconnect them as well.
    
12. Support transmission from underneath with a trannsmission jack (rented). You can also get by with a floor jack, but you have to be more careful as it will want to fall off the small pad to one side or the other.
    
13. Unbolt the rear support crossmember from the car. Leave the crossmember attached to the transmission.
    
14. Lower the jack supporting the transmission so the engine and transmission tips back some. Watch to be certain the cam cover does not hit the firewall. You want it to tip back some, but not that far.
    
15. While making certain the transmission is stable on the jack, remove the four large bolts that hold the bellhousing to the engine.
    
16. Carefully slide the transmission back and down from the engine. Do not let the transmission hang by the input shaft.
    
17. Move the transmission out from under the car (or at least back away from the flywheel area).
    
18. Loosen the transmission filler plug NOW. Do not wait to do this until the transmission is back in place. If it is seized you want to deal with it while the transmission is already out of the car. (Don't ask how I know this.)
    
19. Service and replace the clutch parts as needed.
    
20. Use a clutch dummy shaft to line up the clutch disc when you reassemble the clutch.
    
21. Put transmission on jack, position and slide it up into place. Again, don't let it hang by the input shaft.
    
22. To help get the splines to line up, slip the nose of the driveshaft back into the transmission, and use it to slowly turn the transmission shaft. (You did remember to leave the transmission in gear in step 2, right?)
    
23. Once the splines slide in and the transmission slides up the rear of the engine, bolt it up to the engine.
    
24. Jack up the rear of the transmission until the rear crossmember can be bolted back up.
    
25. Reinstall shift lever (Type A transmissions).
    
26. Re-install the driveshaft.
    
27. Refill the transmission with oil.
    
28. Reconnect the speedo cable and all wires.
    
29. Reinstall the small bolts at the bottom of the bellhousing.
    
30. Reinstall slave cylinder.
    
31. Reinstall shift lever (Type B transmissions).
    
32. Reinstall starter.
    
33. Reconnect battery.
    

It's not that hard, the list makes it look harder than it is. I can swap a transmission in less than three hours. (And have done so more times than I care to admit.) The only part that messes that up is that if you are replacing the clutch disc, you'll want/need to have the flywheel resurfaced, which generally means a wait for the machine shop.

[grantf]

on my 77 I suported the tranny with a strap up through the tunnel hole tied to a steel pipe, Helped out a little.

[SteveJ]

Read the FSM and follow directions.

[cozye]

If your a reasonably strong guy you can drop the tranny right on your chest. 2nd time I pulled mine out I didn't have any help and I was just trying to get it done and over with. I got it out in about 45 minutes by myself, just took out all bolts, driveshaft etc.. and when I was ready to jerk it out, I just slid it back and "bench" pressed it down, then raised it over my head while on my back and set it down.