Kill switch

[frenaud]

I was wondering what would be the best thing to hook-up a "kill switch" to? My Z sleeps outside and I'd like a little bit of extra security, in this case a hidden switch I can just fflip before exiting the car.

What should that switch disable? Ignition? Fuel pump?

[SteveJ]

IMHO, the best wire to interrupt for a kill switch is the White/Red wire going to the ignition switch. If that one is interrupted, nothing happens when you turn the key.

[psdenno]

I've always liked a kill switch for the electric fuel pump, although when I leave the car for an extended period, I remove the rotor from the distributor. With a pump switch, the engine cranks, maybe fires, dies and doesn't fire again. Bad guys move on to a car that runs.

Dennis

[FastWoman]

Here's one I've thought about trying: Hook up a switch between the key switch and the starter. In one position, it sends current to the starter solenoid when the key is turned. In the other position, it sends current to the HORN when the key is turned.

[darom]

I like Sarah's idea - also I would have added a 10 second timer to the HORN part.

[IdahoKidd]

Not a bad plan Sarah. The timer would be a good idea too. It could wire in cleanly at starter solonoid. Where does a guy buy a timer delay like that? I would like to have one for my dome light/door light too. New cars have them, I just don't know what to look for at a bone yard. Would like to find something that is similar in size to an aftermarket headlight relay for example.

[FastWoman]

I LIKE the timer idea, darom!

I suppose the downside is that you pull up to a light, your engine dies, you go to restart it, and you have your switch in the wrong position. The horn blows for 10 sec, and you royally wizz off the guy in front of you!

Leonard, this relay doens't look too bad, although I have no idea how reliable the company is that's marketing it:

http://www.wolstentech.com/products/timedelayrelay/timedelayrelay.php

You'd want the positive trigger relay TDR-P. You'd send +12 to the trigger input from the ignition key. You can set your delay for whatever you wish. This unit has both on and off delays, so it's very versatile and could be used on other projects. The price is fair, IMO. It can switch a load up to 10A. As the OEM horn is fused at 10A (at least per my '78 FSM), it would be fine to use it to provide power even directly to the horn. However, I would use it to power the horn relay instead.

[jfa.series1]

A variation on the kill switch is a well-hidden kill fuse. My brother-in-law has done this to all of his project cars. As mentioned above, the ignition-to-starter solenoid wire (black/white on my car) is a good candidate - not all cars have an electric fuel pump. Identify a place in the car to well conceal a fuse receptacle that you can still acess conveniently. Not an obvious spot like the glove box or ash tray. Don't share the fuse location with others.

Locate the ignition wire inside the car, cut and splice in a similar ga. wire pair to your secret location. Solder in the fuse receiver wires, don't use quick disconnects or butt connectors that could allow the fuse to be easily bypassed if located. Then it is only a matter of pulling the fuse whenever you park the car.

Jim

[SteveJ]

Not a bad plan Sarah. The timer would be a good idea too. It could wire in cleanly at starter solonoid. Where does a guy buy a timer delay like that? I would like to have one for my dome light/door light too. New cars have them, I just don't know what to look for at a bone yard. Would like to find something that is similar in size to an aftermarket headlight relay for example.

Leonard, all you have to do is search for 12v timer relay or 12 volt timer relay on Google Shipping. It wouldn't be too much effort to design such a circuit. Send me a PM about what you want it to do.

[5thhorsemann]

Ok, here is how I wired mine up.

1) installed a LATCHING RELAY, similar to this one http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DAYTON-Relay-1EHY4?Pid=search in the door.

2) add a momentary push button switch in a secret location.

3) install secondary relays on the circuts you wish to disable, coil, fuel pump starter relay etc.

4) pull power for the latch from the ACC. circut.

Here is how it works. To start the car you turn the key to "run", push the button, the relay closes and latches in the closed position and closes the relays on the coil and starter relay circuts.

This allows you to start the car repeatedly as long as you do not turn the key to the off position, so if the car stalls in traffic you can start the car without hitting the switch again. Works terriffic. BTW that is not the relay I used, can't recall the exact part no. but it was a dayton latching relay with two controlled circuts. If it fails while you are on the road, I made splices in the wires above the clutch peddal so you can easily jump them out.

[FastWoman]

Steve, see the link in my post #7 above. Not a bad little gizmo. I think I'd pop for it just for the convenience and neatness factors, even though I could easily design/build the circuit myself.

[SteveJ]

Ok, here is how I wired mine up.

1) installed a LATCHING RELAY, similar to this one http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DAYTON-Relay-1EHY4?Pid=search in the door.

2) add a momentary push button switch in a secret location.

3) install secondary relays on the circuts you wish to disable, coil, fuel pump starter relay etc.

4) pull power for the latch from the ACC. circut.

Here is how it works. To start the car you turn the key to "run", push the button, the relay closes and latches in the closed position and closes the relays on the coil and starter relay circuts.

This allows you to start the car repeatedly as long as you do not turn the key to the off position, so if the car stalls in traffic you can start the car without hitting the switch again. Works terriffic. BTW that is not the relay I used, can't recall the exact part no. but it was a dayton latching relay with two controlled circuts. If it fails while you are on the road, I made splices in the wires above the clutch peddal so you can easily jump them out.

That is similar to what I envisioned, only with a remote door lock system instead of a pushbutton. That way, the thief has to have the remote. Finding a push button won't suffice.