Pertronix vs Points

[StinkyCheese]

When you installed the Pertronix, did you also replace the coil? Do you have a condenser/capacitor connected to one of the terminals on the coil? And lastly, do you still have a ballast resistor connected?

Thats for your help, Arne.

Yes, the coil is new. When I had the points on, there was a condenser hooked directly to the negative side of the coil, plus the one on the side of the distributer. I still have the one connected right next to the coil. And yes, the ballast resistor is still connected.

I just ran it again for the first time today - went for a drive, didn't have to use the choke at all to get it started, ran about 3 miles to the store. When it got warmed up it started dying around 4000 rpm again. Albiet, this is only when I'm stomping on the gas, which is pretty much how I drive the Z :laugh:.

[Arne]

Thats for your help, Arne.

Yes, the coil is new. When I had the points on, there was a condenser hooked directly to the negative side of the coil, plus the one on the side of the distributer. I still have the one connected right next to the coil. And yes, the ballast resistor is still connected.

Try disconnecting the condenser at the coil.

Also, what brand/model is the new coil?

Edited July 2, 2011 by Arne

[StinkyCheese]

The coil is just a generic O'Reilly coil. I had to mod my bracket to get it to fit... Its 1.5 ohms. The condenser on the negative side of the coil didnt seem to make a difference at idle so I didnt even think about that. I will pull it off and try it again this evening. Thanks.

[Arne]

OK, that coil should be fine with the resistor. Try it w/o the condenser, then report back.

[StinkyCheese]

Not so good. i took the condenser off and ran an errand. it had the same problem, so i put it back on. I've read about condensers and know why theyre there, but it doesnt seem to make a difference on this car. I only went about three miles from home, but i didnt think i was going to make it home. Coming home wall all up hill. I started out ok, but after about 1/2 mile i lost all power. it felt like i was running on 3 cylinders. i has to climb the hill in first gear and the hazards on because i couldnt go more than 10mph. It really sucked!

I tried it with and without the condenser in this state and it seemed the same. I limped home. When i was on level roads i could hold the accelrator at about 1/3 of the way and it would slowly get power and go faster. I parked it, then about 2 hours later I took it around the block and it was fantastic. So strange. I wouldnt think a warmed up motor has any affect on the ignition. In my old '73, does the temperature switch do anything?

Btw, arne, i've been reading your homepage and its fascinating stuff, thanks.

[Arne]

Not so good. i took the condenser off and ran an errand. it had the same problem, so i put it back on. I've read about condensers and know why theyre there, but it doesnt seem to make a difference on this car. I only went about three miles from home, but i didnt think i was going to make it home. Coming home wall all up hill. I started out ok, but after about 1/2 mile i lost all power. it felt like i was running on 3 cylinders. i has to climb the hill in first gear and the hazards on because i couldnt go more than 10mph. It really sucked!

I tried it with and without the condenser in this state and it seemed the same. I limped home. When i was on level roads i could hold the accelrator at about 1/3 of the way and it would slowly get power and go faster. I parked it, then about 2 hours later I took it around the block and it was fantastic. So strange. I wouldnt think a warmed up motor has any affect on the ignition. In my old '73, does the temperature switch do anything?

Here's a question - are you certain the problem is ignition? Not fuel? Insufficient fuel when hot can be a sign of a failing fuel pump...

Btw, arne, i've been reading your homepage and its fascinating stuff, thanks.

Argh! I really need to post an update, haven't done much on the webpage in a long time. But when the car is fairly well sorted, frequent updates can be boring. ("Today I washed the car...")

[StinkyCheese]

I'm still reading the early years, so I've got a ways before it gets boring..

I assume you're aware that this car doesnt have an electrical fuel pump. Just the mechanical one by the front of the engine. I don't know if its a fuel problem, air problem, ignition problem, karma problem, anything.. (Probably not a karma issue - I am nice man with happy feelings, all of the time). I just don't know much about diagnosing problems. I've never really tried to fix my car myself before. Its a nice hobby that keeps me out of trouble. I feel I've learned a ton in the last year. I didnt know anything about ignitions before last fall. Taking it to a mechanic is surrender. But Im beginning to think the ignition is OK, too.

Would you suggest i rebuild the fuel pump? If the answer's yes, what kind of damage/wear should i look for? I this a common need?

[mayitin]

I agree with Tony, I am old school and old. Back in the day Z drivers change their pints to the electronic module of the 280 buying a new dizzy was to expensive. then here came Allison ( now Crane ) and now Petronix. I put on the allison back in the 80s and to this day I have not touch it nor adjust it, I even deliver pizzas with my Z and not a problem. When I had the points hmm it run ok some times they burned up I even use the best in those days Blue Streak. I love this forum everybody is nice and very helpful . Is nice we can agree to desagree.

[beermanpete]

The coil is just a generic O'Reilly coil. I had to mod my bracket to get it to fit... Its 1.5 ohms. The condenser on the negative side of the coil didnt seem to make a difference at idle so I didnt even think about that. I will pull it off and try it again this evening. Thanks.

You should try using a 3 ohm coil. According to Pertonix their module is design to use "points style" coils. Points style coils are typiclly 3 ohms. With the 1.5 ohm coil the current is higher and might be overheating the Pertonix module. If you cannot leave your hand on the coil after the car has been running to a little while it is overheating.

Pertonix says to remove the condesor.

[Arne]

But a 1.5Ω coil with the original resistor still in place is effectively the same as a 3.0Ω coil. Should work fine that way. That's what I'm running in mine now.

[StinkyCheese]

Would you suggest i rebuild the fuel pump? If the answer's yes, what kind of damage/wear should i look for? I this a common need?

What do you think?

[beermanpete]

But a 1.5Ω coil with the original resistor still in place is effectively the same as a 3.0Ω coil. Should work fine that way. That's what I'm running in mine now.

Arne, you are correct. I checked the service manual for 1973 Z. The primay resistance of the coil is 1.5 ohms and the resistor is 1.6 ohms. So the 1.5 ohm coil should be ok as long as the correct ballast is installed. The lower primary coil should give a bit more peak voltage on the secondary which helps.

My point was that the maximum DC current (with engine stopped, key on, points [transistor] closed) should not be any higher than about 4 amperes which is what the factory set-up is. Unfortunately, Pertronix is a bit vague about this issue (for my taste).