Update: I've had to tweak the pot just a tad to run my clocks accurately. However this is bench testing with an almost constant temperature of 80F.So far i've tested it on 3 clocks and i'm satisfied with the oscillator. I don't know why it needed the little tweak.   Eric sent it to me with the slot at 12 o clock. As you can see its at about 11:59. But more importantly,all clocks run good on this setting. No need for me to tweak for each individual clock.

Other people will need to bench test their and adjust accordingly if needed. He has graciously assembled the boards that you see below and will be sending them in a few days.

Eric suggested a price of 98.50 usd + shipping. Sounds fair?  any takers?

Edited August 21, 20168 yr by hr369

  On 8/21/2016 at 2:38 AM, hr369 said:

Eric suggested a price of 98.50 usd + shipping. Sounds fair?  any takers?

Can you clarify what is required to make this work? Do I need to do any soldering or will it come with a plug to connect to the original harness?

I would like 1, but would prefer if it came with the factory style plug / connection so I can interchange it with my other clocks and OEM style oscillators.

I am also going to buy the other option produced by the guys in Oz. So I have 2 different options / styles and I'd love to some day understand how all this works. At some point the people who know all this stuff may not grace this earth.

  On 6/11/2016 at 7:10 AM, hr369 said:

where do i sign up to order an oscillator?

Sorry i didnt see this message but looks like you've sorted it out yourselves anyway! Happy to sell you one if you are still keen though

For anyone else looking at the thread my version of the circuit fits inside the clock and has reverse polarity protection too. 

Mine had some early stalling problems but by tweaking the output we managed to pretty much cure it. With the self rectifying nature of the signal we felt the pot wasn't necessary either with the Quartz driven signal. My friend Wayne was the electronics guy so i don't know enough to provide a better explanation than that. 

 

Edited August 24, 20168 yr by d3c0y

 

  On 8/24/2016 at 7:56 AM, Gav240z said:

Can you clarify what is required to make this work? Do I need to do any soldering or will it come with a plug to connect to the original harness?

I would like 1, but would prefer if it came with the factory style plug / connection so I can interchange it with my other clocks and OEM style oscillators.

I am also going to buy the other option produced by the guys in Oz. So I have 2 different options / styles and I'd love to some day understand how all this works. At some point the people who know all this stuff may not grace this earth.

Take off the little pad where the harness and motor wires connect to. Solder 2 wires to the purple board power connectors. Solder 3 motor wires to the back side of the purple board. That's it for the soldering.

  I  can now use a 240z tail light harness plug to plug into the original harness plug end that went into the original oscillator. Then pin your new female plug for + - and

dash light.   You could also just use your own harness. All you need is a power source and your dash light bulb.

 

  Then bench test it and make adjustments to the pot if necessary.  you tell Eric he's going to die.  He's younger than me!

 

Your configuration would be difficult.  First you would need to find a way to stack on the purple oscillator above the little soldering pads that i have removed on mine

so that you could retain the original wiring.  Then you would have to make a seperate power source + and - for the purple oscillator.

The thing i'm not sure about is if you would have to isolate the 2 oscillators from each other even though the internal oscillator is powered down. 

I would have to ask Eric on that.  Perhaps a switch to isolate them if needed.

 

The easiest way of doing it your way would be to make a box for the purple oscillator.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited August 26, 20168 yr by hr369

  On 8/24/2016 at 10:22 AM, d3c0y said:

Sorry i didnt see this message but looks like you've sorted it out yourselves anyway! Happy to sell you one if you are still keen though

For anyone else looking at the thread my version of the circuit fits inside the clock and has reverse polarity protection too. 

Mine had some early stalling problems but by tweaking the output we managed to pretty much cure it. With the self rectifying nature of the signal we felt the pot wasn't necessary either with the Quartz driven signal. My friend Wayne was the electronics guy so i don't know enough to provide a better explanation than that. 

 

 

Yea sorry cancel my order. I was going to try both but i'm very satisfied with the iteration of our version.  How about gav240z's request to make the clock and harness interchangeable

with the original oscillator?  Can he do that with yours if the oscillator is inside the clock?

 

Edited August 26, 20168 yr by hr369

I think you have misunderstood what Gav was talking about. He wants a solution with an OEM plug so he can plug it on any clock, with the old or new oscillator. As you've stated you've used a tail light plug and mine comes with a plug or I have a link to source them for US based people as they are $3USD. Our circuit board comes with a wiring tail so you mount it inside the original box or one of your choosing and just put the plug on it that fits the original clock's loom or put it inside the clock if that is what you want. I figured most people would have the factory clock loom still and wouldn't want to open up their clocks.

  On 8/29/2016 at 2:39 PM, d3c0y said:

I think you have misunderstood what Gav was talking about. He wants a solution with an OEM plug so he can plug it on any clock, with the old or new oscillator. As you've stated you've used a tail light plug and mine comes with a plug or I have a link to source them for US based people as they are $3USD. Our circuit board comes with a wiring tail so you mount it inside the original box or one of your choosing and just put the plug on it that fits the original clock's loom or put it inside the clock if that is what you want. I figured most people would have the factory clock loom still and wouldn't want to open up their clocks.

I gave 2 options for what he wants to do.

1). Keep the internal oscillator inside the clock

2).   make a box for the purple oscillator. (external)

d3c0y is correct, I basically want a plug and play solution. I don't want to have to open my clocks or solder anything onto them / modify them. Since I already have Oscillators and want to use these as an alternative / potentially more reliable solution than the original box. But I still want to retain originality to some extent. If I have the original style of connector I should be able to solder the purple oscillator circuit to this plug type and plug it in correct? No need to open the clock I assume?

Then It would be option #2 for you.  Yes, use an external box with the original style female connector.  If you would like, Eric has volunteered to help people with soldering and pinouts.

 

Edited August 30, 20168 yr by hr369

I don’t have an oscillator but I have a clock and a (hacked-up) loom thanks to Greg. As far as I can tell from what I have and from looking at photos of the oscillator on the internet, the wiring between car/clock/oscillator is like the sketch I attach below.

 

One thing that puzzles me is there appears to be a stud on the oscillator case (under the cover that holds the plug in place) that appears to connect what I believe to be +12V to the case. And given the case then mounts to the car chassis, this doesn’t seem quite right (the black ground connects to the clock chassis… THAT seems normal). I am assuming it is some sort of bushing that is actually insulated from the case but passes though it (why they would do it that way I don’t know). There seems to be some sort of dag or lug there that isn’t clear in the photo. Are you able to do an inspection on your oscillator Gav? Could you take a better photo than the one below?

 

I designed our oscillator to permanently apply +12V to the motor and switch the other end of the windings to ground (rather than the other way round). I did it this way as this is how it is done in the 260Z clock oscillator. If I have figured out the wiring with the rally clock oscillator correctly, then the same approach is taken here. That means our oscillator would swap right in without any changes to the wiring harness. It could be mounted in an oscillator case, or just plugged into the wiring harness if you could find a compatible plug. Like the attached sketch.

 

Eric

The wiring diagrams you have above look correct at first glance to me.

I'm attaching a bunch of photos from the repairs that have been done to my rally clocks over the last couple of years and show a lot of detail of the internals of a Rally Clock Oscillator,

1 thing you may need is to see how the wires are aligned to the pins on the plug?

I'm not sure if Ron replaced all the wires with the exact same colour coding used on the originals. I assume he did. But never make assumptions.

Those are some great photos. Very nice closeups.

The part that interests me the most is where some cables come through the case. I have circled it. Is it an electrical bushing where the conductor passes through it but is insulated from the case? It looks to me like the wires going there are the +12V wires, and it doesn't make sense that they would be connected to the case. Do you have and close ups of that stud? From the top or below? Or are you able to measure the resistance between the bare wires going there and the case?