Just to divert the topic a second for the wiring. 

But this is what the original UP stamp looked like on the Oscillator. Before restoration / re-plating etc..

I just received this from Gavin and guess I will give my input. 

Basically Monkeyman has the correct color code and wiring diag for the original Osc box and clock body, Aug 30 posting.

There are 5  wire colors in the harness and I would and do keep them original. This way we can all be on the same page. 

Black-- ground

blue-- 13.6 vdc

red wire/ green stripe---13.6vdc for motor

red wire/white stripe--signal for motor (A)

red wire/ yellow stripe--signal for motor (B)

 

There is a power feed thru on the Osc cover and this is where the red wire for power to the original ckt bd is attached. Also the green wire is attached here and provides power up the harness to the motor, motor power. The feed thru is isolated from the case of the Osc.

 

Not sure what this "Com" is on the purple board , but please tell me what is it's function?

I'm currently on vacation, but when I return I will lay out a RC clock , harness, and Osc and show where everything goes. There are also other items that can prevent the clock from functioning after you get the wiring sorted out. The main motor gear in most of the clocks I have seen are cracked or missing teeth. The OEM gear is casting wax. It can't be repaired and needs to be replaced. No one makes this gear and I ran into this problem so many times I had a mold made and manufacture my own. My gears are made from a very hard plastic.

Another problem is the clock lever or pawle(sp) which keeps the motor running in the correct direction. What goes bad are the two nylon disks that act as friction disks. If they are very bad they affect the motor speed by causing excessive friction.

Just my 2cents

Ron

Also, failed to mention that the two motor bearings wear over time . Again this is another part that is bad  about 98% of the time. These bearings are very critical and SUPER small. I have to make these from nylon on a mini lathe. If you use anything other than nylon you risk damaging the shaft that supports the motor magnet and the flywheel.

In addition, I see where Capt Obvious is going with the feed thru. I have eliminated the  feed thru in several osc' without problems , but again I don't have a way to test for hi freq RF.

If you replate the cover the acid plating bath destroys the feed thru, causes the center terminal to short to the housing. 

Something to think about.

Ron

 

 

 

 Ron

Back from vacation and looked through my photos of the RC wiring. When I mention POWER in the photos it's 13.6 vdc .

Also, this is the wiring colors for the original OEM osc, harness, and motor. The color stripe on the wires match up with the same solid color wire on the osc connector. The exception to this is that the signal wires , White and Yellow, can be interchanged. ie: white strip can connect to the solid yellow wire and visa versa.

The signals can a be reversed and not cause a problem. Let me know if you have any questions on the photos.

 

Hi Greg (hr369) / Eric (monkeyman), Who do I order your version of the Oscillator through? I will worry about wiring and plug types later, just interested in the Oscillator at this stage. I've already got the other version made by d3c0Y and his friend, but would like to evaluate your version also. Cheers, Gavin.

  On 9/19/2016 at 11:20 AM, Gav240z said:

Hi Greg (hr369) / Eric (monkeyman), Who do I order your version of the Oscillator through? I will worry about wiring and plug types later, just interested in the Oscillator at this stage. I've already got the other version made by d3c0Y and his friend, but would like to evaluate your version also. Cheers, Gavin.

Gav, that would be me. Eric set them all to me.  Let me calculate shipping and i'll send you a paypal request.

Get your own valid XHTML YouTube embed code

 

If you want I can send you this oscilator that i've mocked up to run off the standard plug. Let me know.

 

 

 

Edited October 2, 20168 yr by hr369

Thanks Greg, sure the pre-wired version will be fine by me. I'll send you the payment on PayPal.

Cheers,
Gavin

Ron,

Thanks for posting all those photos with the labelling. You didn't have to do any of that, so it is much appreciated. It helps with making sure the connection to the loom is done right. 

It's fine to have a working oscillator, but as you have said, the clocks can have a number of other problems that will keep them from working despite a functioning oscillator (I have seen the main motor gear cracked and missing a tooth as you have said, and the gear crumbles as soon as you touch it!).

 

Yeah looks like we screwed up with the pass-through capacitor and thought the box was grounded. It did seem strange for it to be like that when we were building them. Our circuit has reverse polarity protection luckily, but we will send around an addendum. Good pickup on that thanks.

 

Hey d3c0y,

If you measured the feed through to ground and it was shorted then one can surmise that the capacitor internal to the feed through was shorted. However, I have not seen one that was shorted , but I always measure the case to feed through just to make sure.

One question I still have is what is the capacitance of this feed through and what noise is trying to be eliminated, frequency?

I'm not sure this feed through is relevant to the OEM ckt bd as there are several internal caps on the subsequent ckt bd(s) that take care of this potential problem.

The OEM ckt boards have 3 revisions , C_D_E over the years, and I have tracked each trying to understand what they , JECO, was trying to do. Not sure if this feed through was very useful after the first revision  other that a convenient place to connect the power wire (red) to the (green) motor power.

 

Not sure if it's relevant to your ckt bd , but what I have observed on the OEM bd is that there is only an input resistor for current limiting and a Zener pull down to clam the voltage. In my opinion if Jeco  was concerned with noise then why didn't they address this in a ckt up front and  the voltage, full wave rectifier.  Subsequent clock manufactures , Kanto Seiki and Citizens both have DC filtering on their clocks.

One of my pet peeves is that Datsun protects the clock on a 10 amp fuse? Most  clocks  only require 15- 20 mili amps so why put it on a  10 AMP ckt!!! By the time the fuse blows the clock will be a puddle of metal. .The only protection in most clocks is a simple resistor that has to melt before it protects the ckt.  I've seen this in the std clocks, calendar and the 2-knob rally clocks.  The clocks in my cars are all fused on 1/4 amp fuses and that is still high .Not that there is  a problem, but come on 10 amps! All the 240 and 280 clocks are fused on 10 amps by Datsun .

Anyway. enough of my ranting. Hope this was of interest to someone. 

Ron (Zclocks)

Edited September 28, 20168 yr by zclocks

Hi all ,  where is available the gear parts for change the gear broken under the motor of rally clock? Anyone use 3d printer? And for clone the 2 rally knob? Thanks regards

I have both the parts you are looking for. You can contact me @ ron@zclocks.com

The 3D printers do not have the detail to hold the tolerances required for the motor gears.

Ron