Is my door bent? Do I need new hinges? Door alignment problems within...

[jepherz]

Well, unfortunately I wasn't able to come to any conclusions tonight. The hinges all looked to have identical dimensions. The only difference I saw at all was the casting differences of the lower hinges. For example, one side had raised lettering, and the other had stamped lettering. Still no idea on the originality of the hinges or the doors. Unfortunately the car was repainted so many times and so shottily that I just cannot tell. One side has white overspray all over the hinges and the other has red and blue?

I may have to try and come up with another way to line up this rocker panel as I really need to get moving on this portion of the car. I sure wish I had a better answer...

[Arne]

I'm not surprised, as if this theory is correct, it is the door that is non-original, not the hinge.

Try measuring where the lower hinge mounting holes are on the door, and compare to the other side (assuming it is OK).

Edited July 7, 2011 by Arne

[palosfv3]

Your Picasa pics clearly show the original color of your car was red. This is evident by the color beneath the door trim panels and the matching red on the interior floor pans and other inner areas. These doors appear to be the original pair installed at the factory. You also show your repairing of the stress cracks I mentioned in my earlier post only on the drivers door. I still believe this could be where your problem lies. When welding up this type of damage it is best that the door is on the car so it can be positioned squarely and tacked into place to check for proper fit before completing the weld. You also have replaced the inner rocker reinforcement. Double check this part for not only proper placement in the structure but that the part is a replacement that is correct for the application. Many reproduction replacement panels need minor modifications or adjustments to be installed and fitted correctly.

Edited July 7, 2011 by palosfv3

[jepherz]

Ahh, I see Larry, I didn't understand what you were talking about when you said "cracks". I repaired the cracks while both doors were both installed, and neither door had cracks that extended beyond the window trim ledge.

I am replacing the outter rocker panel and the few pieces back by the dog leg that have rusted away, but the inner rocker panel is completely OEM. Besides the fit of the curved curners of the door and where they meet the rocker panel, the rocker panel seems pretty spot on as far as I can tell.

[palosfv3]

These doors are fairly flimsy with the window frame and outer hardware removed. Its very possible that you could have welded the stress cracks while the door still had a slight twist . No big deal. Check the gaps at the lower and upper front of the door shell. If they are flush to the rocker and cowl as intended and the gap is parallel from the bottom of the door to the rocker as well as to the front edge of the quarter to the rear door edge. You simply have a very slight twist to the door shell. To resolve, Put a small piece of wood (3" long piece of 2x4) into the upper rear door jamb corner near the quarter glass and push in on the lower rear edge of the door till the edge squares to the quarter .

[jepherz]

Well, thank you for all of your help on my door alignment issue. I lucked out and found a guy selling a door that needs some rust repair locally for $20. I decided to pick it up and try it since I found a bunch of bondo under the 7 layers of paint on the door that came with my car. I put the new door on and voila! No more alignment problems! The gap is still fairly large at the bottom in my opinion, but I believe they came that way factory. I will put up some pics in the next few days.

I'm now looking for help on what to do about the portion of the A and B pillars that meet up with the rocker panels. Mine got a bit destroyed from removing the rocker panels and I'm hoping someone has pictures of a similar repair that they did with small shop fabrication tools and welders. Fingers crossed....