March 11, 201411 yr comment_443117 The nuts that tamo3 posted are the original peen over style. They are not the ZX self-locking style. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/40181-rear-wheel-bearings-and-seals/?&page=3#findComment-443117 Share on other sites More sharing options...
April 23, 201410 yr comment_446435 How deep into the hub are you guys installing the grease seal? One of mine ended up flush with the hub but the other is about 4mm sub-flush (inside the hub). In Blue's write-up it looks like he tapped it flush but in the schematic up in post #7 the seal seems to be pressed a bit deeper into the hub.This may be a non-issue that resolves itself once the nut is tightened down, but what I'm worried about is the inside of the companion flange rubbing against the flat surface of the seal, wearing it out. The drawing in post #7 makes it look like there should not be contact between the companion flange and the seal, except of course at the seal lip on its inner diameter. Edited April 23, 201410 yr by bacarl Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/40181-rear-wheel-bearings-and-seals/?&page=3#findComment-446435 Share on other sites More sharing options...
May 2, 201410 yr comment_447094 bacarl said: I have just the rears (Timken brand) in my cart at RockAuto: $189.39 + shipping The fronts are super cheap by comparison, less than $5 bucks apiece so the fronts only add about $20 to the grand total. MSA sells Koyo brand bearings for almost exactly the same price, minus about $20 for our club discount; they have seals as well for $7 each, which RockAuto doesn't seem to carry. Thanks for the feedback Dave. I checked out your blog from your signature - good write ups in there! Timken is top-notch. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/40181-rear-wheel-bearings-and-seals/?&page=3#findComment-447094 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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