Parked a 70' 240Z in my garage today...

[oranngetang]

It seems to operate more as an idle speed than a choke, but that might just be a characteristic of these carbs. I've had the car for a few weeks now and only have had an hour or two to tinker with it. The new hazard switch seems to have fixed the signal issue, but I havn't been able to check the brake lights yet, the battery is charging today...

I'll post some pics of the 280 dash soon, but I'll be in Vancouver for the next 4 days or so, then back for one, and gone for another 2 weeks working. I have a feeling this car isn't going to get much attention for a while.

Thanks for the hazard switch advice. One headlight is still very dim, and by playing with the fuse in it's holder, it either gets brighter or goes out... It sounds like these cars really benefit from energy efficient bulbs and relays.

If the lights work after the battery is charged, my next task will need to get the tach and speedo working. The dash has a half-cap, so pulling the tach out might be impossible without removing the entire dash. Any advice or links would be much appreciated. I'll do some studying while I'm in Van.

Edited August 11, 2011 by oranngetang

[Perfect240Z]

The very early 240Zs had two levers, but they definitely weren't split up by carb. One lever was the start enrichment and the other was an idle speed lever. I think the reason for removing the idle speed lever was because of safety concerns (people using them as cruise control), but that is just what I've read and not necessarily factual.

Mine has the double levers too, and I was told its supposed to operate a throttle type of control. Mine didn't seem to work though, my car is all taken apart now to start to restore it. I'll try and post some pictures right now actually.

[Bonzi Lon]

The hand throttle should of been removed from the dealer before selling as a safety measure.

Bonzi Lon

[oranngetang]

I started a new job shortly after having the 240Z roll into my garage. I literally havn't had a free hour in months to even look at the Datsun. Work is starting to slow down and I'm finding I have some time around the house other than for sleeping. I ordered a bunch of stuff today for the car from MSA, mainly wire harnesses for parking and headlights, a new fuse panel, carb gaskets, right side headlight case, front bumper and some other stuff, also a pacesetter exhause header, which seems to have mixed reviews. The air pump on the engine is siezed and the smog rails look terrible in the engine bay. Hopefully the stuff ships within the next week or so so I can start working on the car.

Seeing as how I'll be pulling the emissions stuff off the engine, and there is an oil leak and sloppy shifter, as well as a potentially stripped speedo gear. I think it makes sence to drop the tranni and pull the engine to work on all of it. With it all out of the way I could really dive into the front end electrical harness and start seeing how bad everything is.

There ~6x4" panel in the console with the choke and what looks to be a rear defrost switch, and maybe some sort of parking light switch, which is broken and msising a substantial piece, also some random wires that have been replaced not too long ago are hanging out. If anyone has one of these panels for sale, or knows of someone who has a spare, please let me know.

BTW, if I didn't post before, the hazard switched works like a dream and solved the tail light issues, so thank you!!!

[EhlersRS]

Landon,

I know this is rather late, but congratulations on the Z! I'll be sending you a private message with a few questions.

Robert S.

[oranngetang]

Engine is ready to come out as soon as I find a hoist to borrow. The brand new engine stand is waiting.. Going to need to research what people do with the intake manifold, once SMOG is removed. Looks like brass caps and plugs for the most part. Will probably tap cut and tap the water lines in the carbs too, they're rotted completely apart.

[oranngetang]

At last, a day to myself to work on the Z! Re-installed HVAC controls, radio, vents, electrical, fuse panel, etc. Got all signals, tail lights, brake lights, headlights, etc, working 100%. Even the map light is fixed! Installed new washer pump and plumbing. Unfortunately the RH nozzle has a crack and is also plugged. It's soaking in CLR, to hopefully clear a blockage. Perhaps I can JB weld the crack until I find a replacement if the blockage is cleared.

Left on the to-do list before going for inspection:

Get the tach and speedo to work

Install window roller bumpers and new seals/felt to smooth out regulator operation

Reinstall interior fabrics, seats, console, new belts, etc.

Weld in exhaust and install air cleaner and fan.

Weld in a new piece of metal to repair rusty lower firewall/pan section.

It's getting close! Maybe a day or two of work and then I can start playing with the carbs to get it running better.

I have the same issue as before I sent the carbs to Z-Therapy for an overhaul. I'm also getting the occasional backfire out of the carbs themselves when it's running, so checking timing is probably a good start.

Issue is, car ONLY runs with choke fully closed. Will not idle unless it's 80% closed. I should also change the fuel filter before I start messing with anything. Any other advice or experience with this symptom?

I should mention to the dash-cap haters... It came that way and this dash is the worst I have seen under that cap. I picked up another 70' 240z dash with all gauges intact a couple of weeks ago, and plan to restore that one, which only has one small crack above the clock. Is it bad taste to move the VIN plate from one dash to another? There is about 12,000 VIN difference between the two, but otherwise look identical.

Edited September 11, 2012 by oranngetang

[Carl Beck]

If you are replacing the dash - yes - go ahead and move the VIN Tag - and keep the correct VIN on the car. That is what is on your Title!!

IMHO - The half dash Caps never look very good - but the full dash covers properly installed look great - actually hard to spot if your not looking for one.

Keep at it ...

Carl B.

Edited September 12, 2012 by Carl Beck

[cygnusx1]

280Z dash has a nice value to it, if it's uncracked. Be VERY gentle with it though. You can probably sell that dash to pay for a good dash for yours. The car looks great. I started off with a similar condition car, and it was a pleasure getting it back to shape.

[oranngetang]

Here is a progress report:

Going for inspection on Thursday. This thing passed a CA to BC inspection a few thousand km before I got my hands on it. I wonder how it passed, and what else I may need to do. There is a bit of front end play and brakes seem a little soft, though I've bled them repeatedly. I may have a vacuum leak at the brake booster that would cause me some grief with idle and brake pressure, both of which I have. Interior is mostly back in. Need to attack the door locks and interior panels, my new eBay looks have a 4th lug on the housing so I can't stuff them in my 70' doors without cutting them or grinding down the bodies...

[240260280z]

Need a nut on the front left strut insulator

[oranngetang]

Good eye, I havn't found a matching nut yet, but I'll throw one on for the inspection. That's one of the things I mean by I don't know how it passed a BC inspection before. That nut was never on the car when it came into Canada, the floor was rotted through, the signals and electrical was on the fritz. Rear brake wear is probably from burnouts. I know this car one a local burnout competition several years ago I'll more than likely be swapping them out for a set by Tokico, though I'm not partial to that name, just the price. If the drums and pistons need to be replaced, I'll more than likely lean towards rear discs instead. I rather not modify the car anymore than absolutely necessary, but a tight and responsive ride is important to me. Rims-wise... I'll give these a polish, and keep them on until spring. I love the look of the Rota wheels, but it's been done so many times. I might go for a slightly larger diameter and sharper looking slotted wheel to keep it looking original. I'm not into rolling fenders or trimming springs, so I'll work with tire profile to make them fit the wells. Any advice on basic suspension and brake upgrades without breaking the bank? I might go poly-bushings, a rough ride is fine with me and I can live with the squeaks if they'll last.