Great reference! Keep them coming. Looking forward to the SU modification thread you mentioned above.

This is the most complex assembly. I started to photocopy a step-by-step but I messed up so I got tired and reassembled and took fewer ones.

Here are the key parts loosely in their relative positions.

The long plate on the left lowers and raises the jet nozzle.

The plate on the right is connected to the choke cable.

The assembly is also connects via a small rod to the throttle assemble (as the jet is lowered i.e. choke applied, the small rod opens the throttle a little to give a faster idle.

Lots of grease helps this assembly work well.

Here are the remaining parts with the items in the above photo assembled.

A spring and washer are installed on the body.

The rest of the assembly mounts on top and looks like this:

The bolt that holds it together needs antiseize and grease.

Here is another angle with interconnection details:

And another:

Edited August 8, 201113 yr by Blue

Insert the nozzle and prepare the hardware.

Install the sleeve.

Insert the screw and lock washer.

Insert the flat washer on the other side. Use lots of grease.

Move the choke lever and rotate the nozzle to position the long plate so that the screw aligns with the threaded hole in the nozzle.

Snug the screw in place.

Test the choke functioning by lifting the lever.

The nozzle should drop and no binding should occur.

Release the choke lever and the nozzle should snap up into place without binding.

Throttle Assembly parts in their relative positions.

Throttle shaft.

The first part is installed. This is the idle lever. A set screw pushes it down to open the throttle and increase idle speed.

Next is another plate. This is just the WOT stopping plate.

A washer is installed. Grease it well on both sides.

Next is another plate with a connecting rod to the choke assembly.

You have to twist and bend a little to fit this one. The first step to fitting is to insert the rod into the choke assemble.

The way this works is very simple: As the choke is applied, it pulls the rod. In turn, the rod turns the throttle assembly which opens the throttle a little and increases engine rpms when the choke is on.

Another sleeve is installed. Note that it fits in the plate above.

Use lots of grease on the ends and inside.

This is the plate that is pushed by your foot via the throttle linkage.

A lock washer holds it all together

A final deep bolt with recess is installed.

The limit of 10 pictures per post bumped this one:

Exploded drawing of throttle assembly

Idle set screw and spring. Note the fine thread.

Installed.

Edited August 8, 201113 yr by Blue

The Parts

Install shock mount washer

Install rubber shock mount

Install mounting shaft

Some images of the fuel bowl

Hitachi Logo

Fuel Bowl Needle Valve

Found all the parts (Everything will workout if you let it)

Note the black rubber nose on the needle.

Installed

The float.

Note: the tab in the middle is adjustable by bending.

To install the float, a free floating pin is used.

Closeup of how the float presses against the needle valve

Fuel filter and banjo joint

Detail

Locking fastener.

Same

Fuel bolt captive retainer in place

Fuel bowl drain installed.

Fuel bowl attached to carb body.

Note the rubber shock mounts.

That's all folks!

I really appreciate the terrific info and great pictures on the alignment tool and procedure for using it. I have a sticking piston I hope to unstick with this information. Thanks a lot! Ace hardware (now called Thriftway here I believe) didn't have the exact parts for the alignment tool but I used (their part number) 60604-D (hitch pin- 1/8" DIA) and 65784-D (nylon spacer) as a substitute. The nylon spacer available here has a slightly larger ID than what you listed but I wrapped a couple of inches of clear packing tape around the hitch pin to make the larger ID of the nylon spacer tighter on the pin.

Mike

Blue: I used this thread to do the work on my carbs and look what happened, great write up .

Thanks

Dan

Dan they are a work of art!

Did you do the plating? It really sets them off.

Yes, I used the Caswell copy-cad.