A day of testing

[Zed Head]

See if you can get one 5"16" barb with threads that fit your gauge and put the gauge on your cold start valve fuel line.

[ll77]

But wouldn't that mean no CSV? I would like to leave the gauge on the car, like how it is right now with the gauge between the filter and rail.

[Zed Head]

Didn't know you were looking for a permanent gauge. You could check your current gauge with a temporary install of the new oil pressure gauge though. If they match, the odds are fair that they're both accurate.

[Zed Head]

One more thing - I don't see that you have checked your ignition timing and your vacuum and mechanical advance mechanisms in the distributor. If your static timing is retarded and/or your advance mechanisms aren't working you'll get a doggy, low-power engine.

Ideally, you get everything set to factory spec., then start tweaking for driveability and performance.

[ll77]

Problem is fitting the new gauge on. I have a test fuel gauge, but it only goes up to 10 psi. Ignition timing is to spec, 10 BTDC. Advance, I have not yet checked.. I've read I need a mityvac?

[hotroder]

Well you stated it runs rough, I would do a compression test first, if you have a dead hole it will cause low vacuum causing high fuel pressure and a rich mixture, also check the valve adjustment tight valves cause low vacuum also, and check for vacuum leaks I'm sure you've already done this, what year is the car? does it have a converter? if so it could be plugged.

[ll77]

Compression test was OK, IIRC ~160 psi on all cylinders. Valves were freshly adjusted myself, I did it cold w/ the cold specs off AtlanticZ. It is a 76, it does have a converter, and I guess it could be plugged, the PO gave it to me and I had the shop boys weld it on for me to try to pass smog (it failed anyways). I do have a new cat on my shopping list though.

Today, my quest continues to try to fit my gauge on the line. After today, I'll have no choice but to order and wait for this

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-961701ERL/

then I'll shop for barbs to fit in for the lines.

[FastWoman]

FAIW, I installed a guage permanently with parts from my local True Value. They have a $5 Chinese gauge that's pretty accurate. It has a 1/8" NPT fitting. I screwed it into a 1/8" NPT "T" fitting and screwed a couple of 5/16" barbs into the other two holes. I installed it inline between my fuel filter and fuel rail. Works great. Total cost was under $10.

You can test your vacuum advance without a mightyvac. Just suck on the tube REALLY HARD. You should be able to move the breaker plate. You can also try moving the distributor's breaker plate by hand. It should turn smoothly, without binding.

Yogurt cup test: One chest full of air should do the job.

[ll77]

Huh that's strange, I posted a couple hours ago..

Today, I exhausted my final hardware resource and I decided I'd build a fitting with a couple adapters and couplers at Oreilly's. It'll be a bit more pricey, but I don't want to wait for shipping, lest you guys think I'm flaky haha. They only had one 1/4 T and a limited selection of barbed 5/16 fittings, so I put a nipple on the T, then a coupler, then the barbed fitting. Still have to figure out the gauge fitting. They closed down before I could finish, I'll go back tomorrow and fit it on. I'll definitely have a fuel pressure for you guys tomorrow!

Ok, that gives me another thing to do. Thanks, I'll try the advance when I get around to it.

To do:

get fuel pressure

change all vacuum lines

still waiting on AFM+boots

try out my new in-line spark tester

crack open dizzy

yogurt cup test (after my parts deal is sorted out)

Thanks for all the tips guys! Much appreciated!

[ll77]

There's nothing I can do conveniently to fit the gauge on. The problem is the gauge, it's some weird thread that isn't described anywhere on the box or instructions. I don't know my plumbing sizes very well, but I found a 1/8 something nut that would fit on to the gauge, but absolutely nothing else, no adapters, no couplers, nothing. Same deal at the hardware stores. It is an equus 7234 gauge that I bought at Oreilly. Every other oil/fuel pressure gauge they had were of the same size fitting. So I think I'll buy this off ebay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/50mm-0-60-PSI-Pressure-Gauge-Base-Entry-AIR-AND-OIL-/360386925415?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53e8bc1367

edit: I'd get the one with the fitting at the rear, but pretty much the same gauge.

@FastWoman, is this similar to your gauge? This one is from Hong Kong. The fitting is in British Standard Pipe, I'm wondering if this is the same as "metric" if so, I saw some metric adapters this morning that might work with it.

or another option would be to order a fitting online that works for the gauge I have right now. I like the one on Ebay more since the scale is bigger and 0-60psi (mine is 0-100), so I can get more accurate readings from it. But I'm worried that it would be even harder to find fittings than the one I have now. Thoughts please?

Edited August 20, 2011 by ll77

[ll77]

Ok I went to the hardware store today and they gave me a plumbing thread lesson. BSP is based on the metric system, but most hardware stores and auto supply stores don't carry anything metric, only standard "SAE" sizes like National pipe thread (NPT, sometimes referred to as MPT, male pipe thread). So my best bet is to go with an NPT threaded gauge. I've ordered this: http://www.toolorbit.com/Interstate-Pneumatics/IP-G2022-060.html

and once it comes in, I'll need to get a 1/4 to 1/8 elbow adapter, and it'll twist right on. Stay tuned for updates!

Also, I changed a couple of vacuum lines today, and I hooked up a spark tester between each of the plugs and wires. I hear what sounds like a misfire, but the tester confirmed that all 6 plugs were firing normally. So that rules out ignition problems, except for advance. I found a couple connectors to clean, Then I had to go to some birthday thing. My new Bosch injector connectors just came in, the ones I have are all green. Too much to do, not enough time. Updates very soon, I promise!

[FastWoman]

There ya' go!

FAIW, this is similar to the one I have:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-8-NPT-AIR-PRESSURE-GAUGE-0-60-PSI-SIDE-MNT-1-5-FACE-/270698402269?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f06e1d1dd

... except mine is a 100 psi gauge with a 1/8" NPT thread.

It's screwed into one of these:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Brass-Pipe-Tee-Female-T-Fitting-1-8-NPT-Thread-Air-Fuel-/260609617943?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item3cad8b3017

... and two of these are also screwed into it:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Fuel-Hose-Barb-Fittings-1-8-NPT-x-5-16-Hose-Barb-/130454543600?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item1e5fb25cf0

I have to say the prices at my True Value hardware store are a lot better, though!

If your fuel/air mixture is lean enough, you'll get some random misfires. You've tried fingering the AFM to deliver more fuel, and that improves the engine's running/vacuum. I bet your misfires also disappear when you do that. Right?