Posted August 19, 201113 yr comment_364386 Hi Everyone, I am finally reassembling my engine and have a question. I have 2 engines, the original one and one from the parts car. I have ended up with duplicate parts and do not know which is from the original engine. There are subtle differences that hopefully someone can help determine which is the older. One set was connected by a metal pipe and with the other set, they were connected by a hose. There are also differences in casting numbers. I am trying to use the older set that went with the older engine. Thanks! Carl Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/40552-help-with-part-identification/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
August 20, 201113 yr comment_364390 Probably not a big difference between the two. The line is for coolant flow to heat the manifold and carbs. Something you do not want in the summer so if you don'd drive in Indiana in the late fall or winter, you do not need it. The pipe ads a little structural strength. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/40552-help-with-part-identification/#findComment-364390 Share on other sites More sharing options...
August 20, 201113 yr comment_364411 From the information I have gathered,E-46 = 69-71 4 screw SUE-88 = 72 3 screw SUN-33 = 73 Flat topN-36 = 74 Flat topThere is internet speak that the 74 N-36 has a 'little' bit better flow, and 'maybe' a few more cc volume. I haven't found positive proof yet.Bonzi Lon Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/40552-help-with-part-identification/#findComment-364411 Share on other sites More sharing options...
August 20, 201113 yr comment_364412 I did a little net searching and found that the N36 did work better in race applications at WOT.Read this thread: http://www.zcar.com/70-83_tech_discussion_forum/n36_hoax_631455.0.htmlWhat I would like to see is actual flow testing on a flow bench. I should make the one I have been procrastinating all these years. Edited August 20, 201113 yr by Blue Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/40552-help-with-part-identification/#findComment-364412 Share on other sites More sharing options...
August 20, 201113 yr comment_364415 I was / am going to do a cc measurement on the 3 manifolds I have, E88, N33 & N36 that is on my car at the moment. I noticed right off, a cc gain (and thus flow), could be had by cutting the balance tube bolts off flush to the inside, they do protrude. I don't have access to a flow meter, was just going to measure volume. This would be done before ANY porting or polishing, wanting to get the stock numbers.Bonzi Lon Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/40552-help-with-part-identification/#findComment-364415 Share on other sites More sharing options...
August 21, 201113 yr comment_364475 I compared N series to E series and found some differemces which I documented here: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/67639-cast-intake-manifold-dimensions-how-big-can-you-go/page__p__635737__hl__%2Bn36+%2Be88__fromsearch__1#entry635737 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/40552-help-with-part-identification/#findComment-364475 Share on other sites More sharing options...
August 21, 201113 yr comment_364485 Blue: Interesting read, as I have cam 13001-N 3626, N-36 intakes, new rebuilt Paltech carbs, header...and it does scoot. (I truly remember it as stock w/flat tops.) blue 72: Interesting read on the inner casting differences, I used to work in a ductile iron foundry, like aluminum only hotter, shows they made a change, for the better? Bonzi Lon Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/40552-help-with-part-identification/#findComment-364485 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Create an account or sign in to comment