Mustache bar bushing bushwacked!

[zguybill]

A lesson to be learned I suppose. I was having a new differential installed on my 71 240z (Along with a cltch and tranny--it gets to be a long story) and I thought I would put in new bushings and mounts especially on the mustache bar. Me and the mechanic I was working with knew the old inside casings on the mustach bar bushings had to be reused for the new urethane ones but an overzealous helper did not and destroyed one in getting the old bushing out! What can I do now? Does anyone have extra casings or know the exact sizing so I can have one made up? I looked through the catalogs and didn't see any replacement casings available except for what I saw on page 85 of the Victoria British catalog (part 46) which I don't know for sure whether or not has this casing with it. I've got to believe that this is not the first time some bonehead has done this (at least I hope so) and maybe some of you oldtimers have come up with solutions to this dilemma. Any and all help would be appreciated. Don't tell me I need a new mount bar though! ( I could understand new mechanic though!)

Bill

[2ManyZs]

If you are using urethane bushings the outer sleeve is not really needed at all. In fact, the one time I did this, I was planning on leaving the sleeve in the mustache bar as it is a PITA to get it out. The urethane bushings I had would not fit inside the sleeve so out came the air chisel and after much cussing, the sleeve was out.

One item you can do though, before you put the new bushing in is to spot weld the mustache bar end. It is merely rolled into a cylinder but it is not welded and it will have a bit of give to it. If you really try you can actually open the end of it to let out the outer sleeve. If you are planning on any racing with the car you ought to at least spot weld it in a couple spots to keep the bushing in place securely. If it is just a street car, it isn't necessary to weld the end, but you can if you want to to give yourself peace of mind.

One other thing, be sure to lube the new bushing before you install it, lube it with a heavier type grease such as wheel bearing grease inside and out to prevent any squeeks in the future.

[Bambikiller240]

zguybill posted:

Me and the mechanic I was working with knew the old inside casings on the mustach bar bushings had to be reused for the new urethane ones

If the Urethane bushings that you bought specify that the casing be left in place I WOULD NOT assemble without it. You will have a "clunk" from that location if you do. If you have to, buy a new OEM bushing and press it into place, then burn out the rubber. Only assemble without the casing if the instructions with the Urethane kit specifies to remove the casing.

If you do this wrong, you WILL regret it, I can assure you! Don't ask how I know.:stupid:

The key thing to remember about 2ManyZs post is that his Urethane bushings "would not fit inside the sleeve". If yours do fit, YOU NEED the sleeve. Most bushing kits currently sold do require the sleeve (casing) to be left in place. They will be a tight fit (they need to be!), but they will fit.

For future reference, if you do this job again on another car, just use a propane torch to heat the outer metal area of the mustache bar surrounding the old OEM bushing just until it begins to catch fire. Stop immediately and use a big hammer to "tap" the bushing. It will fall out leaving the casing in perfect condition. This is really an easy method and is safe when done OUTSIDE and with a bit of care. You should have a bucket of water nearby to put the old rubber into after it falls out.

[zguybill]

Thanks for the answers/suggestions. I wish I would've had all this information together before I left my z alone. Hind sight is always 20-20. I guess I'm going to have to find an OEM mustache bar bushing, install it and then destroy it so I can get the urethane bushing to work right. At least there is one good thing to be said and that I'm dealing with this in the winter when I won't drive the z anyway!

Bill

[BOBZCARS]

Just visit your local boneyard and get another mustache bar. A whole used one is probably cheaper than one new bushing.

Cheers!

[beandip]

there is a bone yard and I am going there on Sat. to pick up some things and I am sure that they have a bar. All they have at the yard is Zs . If you want I will get one for you and ship it to you . Let me know I have now idea what they cost or the cost to ship it to you . If sleve can be pressed out that would save shipping costs . If any one knows of this let me know. Bill if you will pay for the bar and the shipping I would be glad to help. just let me know. Gary I also need to know what diff you are installing because if it is a 200 it takes a different bar.

[That Ozzy Guy]

The guy that did my exhaust today told me this mount(?) is stuffed and that's why I hear the loud clunk most likely. What is this mount(?) called so I know what to ask the wreckers?

What is this mustache bar you guys are reffering to? Is it that bar the mount is attached to?

As you can see I'm a bit lost when it comes to this.

Thanks.

[Bambikiller240]

Originally posted by That Ozzy Guy

The guy that did my exhaust today told me this mount(?) is stuffed and that's why I hear the loud clunk most likely. What is this mount(?) called so I know what to ask the wreckers?

What is this mustache bar you guys are reffering to? Is it that bar the mount is attached to?

As you can see I'm a bit lost when it comes to this.

Thanks.

Hi George:

That is your Front Differential mount. A notorious weak link in the 240Z drivetrain. It absolutely WILL cause a clunk as the clutch is engaged and/or as you shift gears. I do not recommend getting one from a wrecker. You're liable to end up with one in similar condition. Get a new unit. They are readily available in the US, so I assume (?) that they should be available in OZ. Cost here is around $40 USD

The "Moustache bar" is the common name for the REAR Differential mount. It's almost 4 feet (slightly more than a Meter long) and is attached to the Differential by two bolts. The bushings are at the extreme ends of the bar where it attaches to the body of the car.

[That Ozzy Guy]

Thanks Carl. It appears to be ok as long as I take it easy on the car so I'm not terribly worried as yet.

[Bambikiller240]

Originally posted by That Ozzy Guy

Thanks Carl. It appears to be ok as long as I take it easy on the car .....

You are most welcome!

One thing to keep in mind is that when this mount is broken, it is allowing the drivetrain to move around in that area more than the rest of the components are designed to withstand. It can cause the "limiter strap" (that goes over the front of the differential) to be be stretched so that it cannot do its job (even after the mount is replaced). Also it can put extra stress on the rear set of U-joints on the driveshaft. If you can get one, I wouldn't wait too long to address the issue. You have a very nice car , keep it that way.:classic:

Just my $.02

Carl

PS It's fairly easy to replace, if you have a little experience.

[zguybill]

Beandip, Thanks ! I appreciate the offer. I wound up getting an OEM bushing pressing it in and then burning it out so I could use the urethane upgrade set. (I hope this was all worth it). You must live in a very nice place to have a Z boneyard that you can visit. I would be in trouble with my wife if there was something like that close by here!

I really do appreciate the offer though. It was nice of you. It sure is nice to meet some other Z fanatics. I can't offer that kind of help, however I can rekey and rebuild Z locks (I'm a locksmith by trade) for those that have problems with them.

Bill

[beandip]

Sad to say they are closing the doors for good , or bad depending on your perspective, in a couple of days . There are about 50 to70 cars going to the crusher. Sat .I am picking up a r-200 and rear sway bar for my '73 . I scored a '82zx engine a month ago. It's taped me out cash wise but I think I need to pick up what I can while things are available. Door locks that is something I am looking for, someone has jammed a screwdriver in the drivers lock and it is toast. Are these locks difficult to rekey ? What I should say is are parts available to repair them or the internals standard . My passinger door is one key and the hatch is another and the glove compartment another . Any way glad to hear you have solved the problem on your car. Gary