Tore my strut mount: Need Opinions

[Ben's Z]

I was in the midst of sanding down my inner outer energy suspension control arm bushing to get my spindle to fit between the bushings that energy suspension refuses to revise and in doing so I was moving my spindle towards the lip on the quarter panel and my strut mount tore some. I felt it let go and upon backing off the 3 nuts I inspected it and it tore around the 17mm strut nut, about 50% of the rubber. The rubber is in great shape and I continued on with reinstalling my spindle pin successfully.

Should I stop now take it back apart and fix it? Leave it because it won't give me problems? I still had problems getting the spindle pin back in and the thought of doing this over angers me. Please advise.

[Arne]

I'd fix it. And you shouldn't have to remove the spindle pin to change the upper strut mount. It can be done while leaving the spindle pin in place.

[Ben's Z]

How Arne? Does the control arm droop low enough to get it out?

[Zed Head]

Arne will probably get back to you, but in the meantime if you're in a hurry, I can say that it is possible to drop the strut out of the tunnel if you remove the parking brake cable and the brake hydraulic line. Put a jack or some blocks under the control arm, remove the three nuts, then push the strut inward as you drop it down. It's not that hard to get it out and hanging off of the inner mounting bushings.

On installation, put a jack under the control arm and get the three studs very close to going through the holes during installation, then use your foot to jack up the last few mm while you align the studs to get them through the three holes.

By the way, I think that you could lever those bushings in without sanding, with some thin, greased steel putty knives or similar. They will guide and compress the urethane as you press it in to place.

[Arne]

I have done the rears on Zs this way many times in my prior career.

• Loosen - but do not remove - the three nuts at the top of the strut tower, and also the center shaft nut.
• Jack up the car and support on jackstands. Let the wheels hang free. Remove wheel.
• Disconnect and plug the brake hose at the chassis end. Unbolt the halfshaft from the stub axle flange, disconnect the parking brake cable. If you have one, disconnect the rear sway bar.
• Now remove the three upper strut tower nuts. Pry the strut straight down and out of the strut tower, then down a bit farther and pivot it outside the wheel opening. Be careful not to scratch the fender lip when you bring it out.
• Now the strut is out in the open. Compress the spring, remove the center shaft nut, replace the upper mount.
• Reassembly is the reverse. Be sure to orient the three upper studs correctly before getting the strut back into the tower, and again, be careful about the fender lip. Don't forget to bleed the brakes.

Edited August 29, 2011 by Arne