Is it right hand or left hand thread? Can't break mine loose. Don't want to add something like a broken valve nut to my 100 items to do list. Thanks for any help.

Standard threads. Give it some "yo' and it will go. Maybe a plastic hammer.

http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/1803105

I just tried using a rubber hammer, don't have a hard plastic, still won't budge. Valves were sooooo far from spec numbers they're in another county (trying to be funny). I think they've never been touched by American hands. Autozone has a set of Crows Foot sockets for $15. I'll be standing at their door when they open this a.m. Also found carbon filled head bolt rolling around inside. Should I try extracting broken bolt now? I'd rather wait until cooler weather gets down here but if it could cause any damage I would go on and do it. It's the one between #2 and #3 spark plugs. Will it be ok for a month or two? I had a '76 when I was in high school then bought a '78 for that extra gear but never turned a wrench on either one. Now 24 years later I found this '77 with a 5 speed and love working on it. Funny how time changes priorities. But it sure is hot & humid this morning.

Edited September 4, 201113 yr by siteunseen

Question for Gary in New Jersey. Is your paint #305? I'm talking about the car in your avatar picture. I like that.

Invest $20 in a dead blow hammer. They are semi-hard plastic filled with lead shot. When you hit the wrench, almost all the energy is trasferred to the nut.

Would not have been able to break a number of nuts loose on my Z without it.

You could also try a brass hammer.

A short stroke with a 3 pound maul on a good tight wrench might work. Heavier is better so that you can spend more effort on precise aiming and less on swinging.

How would you extract the broken head bolt without removing the head? I might be more worried about that than the lash adjustment, it could be a sign of bigger problems. How did it break? And what does carbon-filled mean?

Do you have some numbers on your current lash settings? I'm curious about how loose they are, and how they got that way.

I had to buy a longer wrench. Get the longest wrench you can find that will fit between the head and the fender. The crows foot is a good idea as well. Get the 1/2" drive model, it is stronger that the 3/8" drive.

If you have a broken head bolt you have way bigger problems than just maladjusted valves.

You will wind up with a blown head gasket (if you don't already) and if you keep driving it that will damage the head. That is something that needs immediate attention.

Oh wow! I've ordered a header from MSA and I'll have to try and fix broken head bolt when I do that install. I'd call them "female bolts" and the opened top part on all of them where filled with carbon like sludge. Shop Vac and small screwdriver cleaned them out. I adjusted the valves cold 1st this a.m when Autozone opened and I could buy the Crows Foot set for $15. So much easier with that than hammer and wrench I promise. And torqing them back down? Couldn't have done it otherwise. "I" couldn't have. Initially the hot readings were from the front back to firewall, .012 E, .012 I, .010 I, .014 E, .012 I, .015 E, .016 E, .013 I, .014 E, .012 I, .012 I, .014 E firewall. As I mentioned earlier adjusted cold @ .010 exhaust & .008 intake having never done this I was quite anxious so needed the trial run. Drove around the neighborhood and re-checked them "hot". Only had to re-adjust 2 out of 12. That ain't bad. So my method from here on will be to go cold then hot. Also cleaned fuel injector plug connections. It really isn't hard with all the advice I get from you guys. Thanks again. I'm gonna' leave it alone untill I get that header then I'll deal with the broken off head bolt. Great day spent with my car! Now for a beer or five.

Question for Gary in New Jersey. Is your paint #305? I'm talking about the car in your avatar picture. I like that.

The car was originally 115 Blue Metallic. This repaint appears to be very close to the original color.