Strong fuel smell in the car when I turn LEFT

[Pop's Z]

Glen, That's true for the early models. Mine is steel.

Cheers, Mike

[Oiluj]

The evaporator tank on my 1972 is steel as well.

[Powderkeg]

Stephen,

It sounds like your fuel filler hose could be the culprit. Can you see where the leak is when you fill up?

If you decide to pull the tank make sure you replace all the fuel hoses as long as you have the tank out. Replace the sending unit O-ring as well.

The only difficult fuel hose is the long hose with the 180 degree bend.

If you decide to use POR-15 make sure you have about 4 warm days to allow the tank to dry. Also make sure the tank is ABSOLUTELY dry before you add the coating. I used a heat gun to get the seams of the tank (It took about 45 minutes).

When you install the tank, attach the fuel filler hose first to the tank then feed it through the filler hole in the car. You can heat the hose to get it to fit through filler door hole.

Dave Ruiz

[Arne]

Glen' date=' That's true for the early models. Mine is steel.

Cheers, Mike[/quote']

The evaporator tank on my 1972 is steel as well.

The Parts list shows the change from plastic to metal was in July '71. Plastic -> 6/71, metal 7/71 ->. My 7/71 (built late in July) has metal.

FWIW - I have replaced all of the vent hoses and the filler tube. While it's way better than it was when I bought the car, there is still a bit of fuel smell in the car after a while (24+ hours) if I leave it closed up (both windows closed). For a car where you are not concerned with strict originality, by-passing the expansion tank would probably be a good thing.

[EScanlon]

...snip...When you install the tank, attach the fuel filler hose first to the tank then feed it through the filler hole in the car. You can heat the hose to get it to fit through filler door hole.

No, no, and no. Unless you have a firm and steady supply of replacement fuel filler hoses at $100 each plus.

If your filler hose top neck requires heat to be supple enough to feed through the TWO (count them two) openings in the sheet metal, you are NEVER going to get it to position by mounting on the tank first.

First off, although expensive, if your filler hose is HARD, and I mean hard enough to require more than a couple of fingers to compress it.... replace it. You be the judge, but hard rubber means it's lived it's life and movement will cause it to crack and fail. You've already got fuel fumes in the car... why give them a head start after the "fix"? Heating old rubber will only get it soft enough to do a FAST installation. The procedure above is anything BUT fast.

The procedure for mounting this hose (and I've done a few) is to insert it from the INSIDE of the car. You first remove the flange neck that bolts to the bottom of the fender "sill", this is where the accordion bulges need to be supple enough to allow the flange to be worked over them. This is the bottom "leg" that connects to the tank.

Then carefully collapse the upper flanged neck (the one the gas cap mounts over), up through the Gas Door Cup's hole. Once you've done that you can also work the Bib Rubber over it (it mounts below the flanged neck) from the outside. Instalation of the Gas Cap Base Mount can be done now or later, just be sure to align the mounting holes properly.

Go underneath the car, and re-insert the bottom flange neck over the filler hose and mount to the bottom of the fender sill. If you're concerned with fumes you can bolster this with some form of sealant to "seal" the bottom. Just be sure to use a sealant that does not degrade the filler hose.

Your Filler Hose is now installed.

Next, go underneath the car, make sure the access cover in the rear right tire well has been removed giving you lateral access to the filler hose and the tank's filler hole. This is a simple panel that allows you to get your hands in to clamp the filler hose to the tank's neck.

A note here, the vent hoses on the top of the tank should have already been mounted AND clamped to the tank and pre-routed through their respective openings. Place & glue the tank's isolation rubber pads now. If you want you could also pre-fit one of the fuel tank straps leaving one end loose. Get a support that will hold the tank in place comfortably, it's a bear to try to hold the tank up with one hand while trying to do the next step.

First slip on your filler hose clamp onto the filler hose, and then position the tank and carefully work the tank neck into the filler hose. Once you've done that, support the tank and clamp the filler hose to it's neck. Make sure all the vent hoses etc. move into proper position (i.e. no kinks, sharp bends or areas where they'll get clamped shut) and then attach the fuel tank strap to hold the tank properly. Review the filler hose/tank neck connection to make sure the hose isn't kinked or twisted. Attach the other tank strap.

On the inside attach your Over flow vent fitting and your vent hoses.

That pretty well covers it.

FWIW

E

Edited September 5, 2011 by EScanlon

[Zedyone_kenobi]

Thanks so much guys! I will be ordering parts today. Seems this is going to be a fun little project. I think I will finally get some service out of my transmission jack, which is about to do double duty as a gas tank jack.

I am going to email courtesy to see what they have in stock for fuel lines. I really want to try to save all the OEMness of the car if possible.

I will photograph everything I can to document it.

[FastWoman]

Enrique, what you describe for the 240 filler neck is very different from what I experienced with my '78 280, which I presume is attributable to some changes in design and materials. (I know my '75 from years ago had a HUGE filler neck, while my '78 has a much smaller one.) My filler neck appeared to be made of neoprene rubber. It looked brand new after I finished wiping it down with mineral spirits. It was supple and shiny. (Do you know whether they made filler necks in '78 out of neoprene?) For all I know, the PO had replaced the filler neck recently, but I don't find mention of it in his paperwork anywhere. I presume it is original.

Anyway, I just re-used my old filler neck. I did attach it to the tank first, and it went effortlessly through the hole. I had someone else feed it onto the barb. I realize the fat filler neck of the '75 (same as the filler neck on the 240s?) might need to be installed differently, but I'm just sayin'... because someone with a '78 (or '77) reading this thread might want to know. ;-)

[EScanlon]

Sarah, the post specifically addressed the 240. To delve into the other models in ONE thread would be overkill.

The early 260 had a different filler hose from the later 260 which it shared with the 280 which was a different hose. The microfiche also hints at differences with the 2+2 models. Undoubtedly there were sheet metal changes during that time as well which probably changed the best method for inserting the filler hose.

The 280 shows a distinct SEPARATE piece for the section of the hose that goes through the Cup that holds the top of the hose. The 240's piece is all one piece from the top OUTSIDE down to the tank. That one change would allow you to insert from the bottom, whereas in the 240 trying to insert the upper AND the seal grommet while holding the tank up... rots of ruck.

I didn't post the 280's differences as the one 280 I refreshed was too far back in time to cite memories accurately.

FWIW

E

[FastWoman]

Thanks, Enrique, and sorry for the hijack!

[Hunter260Z]

Is the filler hose for a 240 and the early model 260 the same.

[EScanlon]

The microfiche shows the same part being used on the 240's and the earliest 260's, up to August 74. After Sept 74 it shows the two part filler neck. As other parts have shown, there is undoubtedly some "fuzziness" as to the actual cut-off/start but that's what the CD shows.

E

[Zedyone_kenobi]

THe repair process has begun. The car is on jackstands and today I drained the last bit of life out of the tank. IT was sort of sad. Next step is to look around for any known leak spots.

The tank is very dry all over and shows no signs of leaks or runs. So down I am sure it will go.