yes, the filler neck has a plastic fitting in it that connects it to the vent hose, and it is stamped 3/4". Not sure why they would have changed for later years!

I have ordered hoses but if they do not work out, I will be happy to send hamptonrubber some money!

There is a nylon plastic connector from the filler neck to the hose going to the evaporator tank. I had this fitting fail in tension (spiral cracking), so I replaced it with a copper fitting. No more gas fumes.

Eureka!!

Napa had 3/4" fuel injection line.

I can finally finish this project

Good news, is my fuel smell is GONE, I filled it up with 8 gallons to get it past half way and sloshed it around as I drove it... ZERO gas fumes! YEAH.

Bad news, Gas guage goes up to E, and does not read an ounce above it and does not move. I may have a bad connection or a bad sending unit, BOOOOO

Bad news, Gas guage goes up to E, and does not read an ounce above it and does not move. I may have a bad connection or a bad sending unit, BOOOOO

It could be upside down too. I believe the yellow cabled +pos connection (with stand-off) should be on the top at 12 o-clock.

I agree, I drew a diagram of how it came off the tank, the black/yellow wire does go on top. But I will be darned if I noticed how I installed the pick up...I will check.

I will be surprised though. The sending unit has a notch in the side that will only let it go on one way. I may have my wires mixed up then. I will check the resistance going through it tomorrow.

I checked the resistance between the two terminals, and I get a constant reading of 86.7 Ohms with about 7 gallons in it.

Also when take a voltage reading from the yellow to the black wire, It fluctuates between 13.1 volts to 0 volts regularly as clockwork with the engine running. It fluctuates with the same regularity (about 2 Hz) between 11 and 0 volts with the engine off. This just seems weird. I get only 68 Ohms of resistance between the black and yellow wires, going through my gas gauge. This is very confusing!

The voltage flickering is normal. It is actually heating a piece of bimetal in the dash gauge.

When the metal heats, it moves and brakes the electrical contact thus the voltage is 13V when no contact and 0V when contacted. I believe when the resistance is low (10 ohms at full), every time the bimetal cools and makes the circuit, a bigger current flows thus heating it very quickly and moving it further. When the resistance is high 80 or 90 ohms, every time the bimetal cools and makes the circuit, a smaller current flows thus heating it very slowly and not as much and moving it less far. Very analogue and cooldesign.

The common problem maybe that your wiper wiping on a warn out part. Bend it a little.

I did not know that!!! VERY cool...

But it is a brand new sending unit. straight out of the NISSAN wrapper.

Okay, real time update. I pulled all the interior panels before Blue told me the fluctuations were normal. So too late for that.

BUT I removed the gas sending unit and hooked an OHM meeter to it. It is reading full about 11ish Ohms and 85 Ohms when empty. About. When I put it back in the fuel needle moved up past E and about a 1/3rd up the gauge...which is about 6 to 7 gallons, I am sure these gauges are more accurate in the middle. So now I will fill it up and see if the gauge moves again. I see no reason why taking it out and moving it and installing it again would have fixed anything.

Stephen, will be interested to see if you are able to read "full" and "empty" with your fuel gauge. Mine will not read above 3/4 full and less than 1/4 empty, with a new sender. Not sure what the problem is.

Could have been hung up.

Also there is an adjustment screw on the back of the fuel gauge that (if remember correctly) controls the radial distance between the indicator needle and the bimetal strip for calibration.

I think I will have to test bench (v) and photo doc(v) the system once and for all as this seems to be one of those "black magic"areas when in fact it is EZ PZ.

Edited October 16, 201113 yr by Blue