Trying to get the master cylinder out. Can't get the lines undone. Someone mentioned a special wrench that would not round off the nuts. Is this the one?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=20774&item=2084786019

That's the one! Remember, if the price gets too high, you can always get one at Sears that will work just as well.....

U the man

Derk:

The link below is for Alden Wrenches. This is what I use. It's an open-end wrench that grips tighter as you apply more force. Very easy to use and I've had ZERO problems with rounded flare nuts on my hydraulic lines. You can buy them at many parts stores or on-line. You can get a 3 piece set. I borrow the 3-piece set from a friend and IMO they are great. :classic:

http://www.aldenwrench.net/index.htm

Well guys I had no idea that u needed such a tool I could never get those damn things undone without some form of rounding starting. This is particularly important as my clutch hose has some major cracks that will need attention in the not so distant future. While were on the topic are these hoses hard to get and are they expensive?

Also if you can't source one easy can you buy the hose and trim it to a certain length?

Thanks again.

Gavin:

In the USA they cost about $20 USD for an OEM hose, or for a few dollars more (around $25 USD total) you can get an stainless steel braided Replacement hose. They are available at Motorsport Auto. The OEM hose can also be bought at any Nissan dealer here. Both the OEM and Stainless hoses have metal fittings on each end, so you can't buy plain hose and trim to fit. You need to buy the correct part. :beard:

Get a proper wrench or one day soon you'll bugger up a flarenut completely, and then you'll find out how difficult it is to get brake or clutch metal lines!:disappoin

Well, just tonight I bought enough steel brake tubing to replace all the hard lines on my car (I hope...) I didn't have any trouble finding them, but it ran me more than $60.

Why am I replacing them all? Because I have the engine and transmission out of the car, so they are accessable, and in the past 5 years I have had the steel brake lines rupture on three cars due to rust.:mad:

(Not one of those cars was over 12 years old, my Z is 31...)

They don't call this the rust belt for nothing!

Hey Walter...I am in Evansville.

i would recomend a set of Kobalt wrenches. i use them love them and they are comprable to that of MAC and Snap On.

they are made of quality steel cheap as or cheaper then Sears Craftsman and are just plain better. they also fit perfectly unlike many Craftsman wrenches.

oh btw thats the one

Just a quick note to add when loosening flare nuts. Even with the proper flare wrench you should loosen them VERY slowly at first. Keep an eye out for the nut binding to the tube/line. If the tube turns with the nut, its binding and will break, then you end up replacing that section of brake or clutch line .

If it is binding, try tightening the nut a little. Keep repeating this, tighten/untighten, and with a little luck the nut will free itself from the line and you're home free. Spraying the junction witha little WD40 or something similar beforehand sometimes helps as well.

Peter

I live in the city of Lebanon IN, one county north west of Indianapolis. I work in Indy however.

I was in Evansville once... I can't recall when or why... It is easier to get to Detroit from Indy than Evansville, at least unless/until they extend I69 down that way. I don't know how they plan to fund that project, when the state is flat broke...

Proper application of a good penetrating lubricant, a propane torch and a good quality flare wrench, ensures success.

On the more corroded fittings, a smidgen of thermonuclear weapon may be in order.