For those who have used a spindle pin removal tool, I have a few questions. First, did the tool work, and if so, how hard was it to get the pin out? Please give tool details as well. What worked well, and what could be improved? Did the tool have a bearing, greased washers, or ??? The reason I ask is that I'm about to make my own removal tool, but I want to build a better mouse trap, so to speak. Rather than using hardware store all-thread, I was considering buying acme thread rod to make the tool. I figure that 3/4" - 6 acme rod will make the tool much more efficient than standard threaded rod. A friend just loaned me a tool he bought online and it worked for him, but he said it was a real pain and the rod twisted under load. With a nice fat acme thread and a thrust bearing, the tool *should* be better and make pin removal a breeze.

I have only done the pin removal the hard way. After heating and beating, I cut the pins off and used a huge shop press to extract the center of the pins from the knuckles. It was a horrible job and rather dangerous. That was all long before anybody came up with the puller tool and I haven't had to remove any since, until now. I have two sets that I need to remove and I want to make it as easy as possible on myself. I like good quality tools that work well and last forever. I will try the tool I borrowed to do one set, but I am not impressed with the design and want to improve it for the future.

So, does the tool NEED to be better, or am I wasting my time? I figure that if I buy 6 feet of acme rod, acme nuts and some pipe, and I can make at least 5 tools and sell them to pay for my materials. The acme thread rod isn't cheap, but at about $25 per tool, I could make it work. I can get the standard threaded rod for only a few bucks, but if acme is the way to go, I want to do it right.

If I do decide to go this route, is there any interest in a ~ $25 removal tool?

I will be happy to pay you that much right now, and even in advance if it would help you get started. I think 25 dollars for a useful tool like that is darn good value for money.

Thanks Stephen. I am thrashing to get my 260 ready for a 25:25:25 (25 hours, 25 minutes and 25 seconds) race right now, so I will probably order the supplies I need for the tools in mid-October if I decide to go forward with that design.

Edited September 14, 201113 yr by Jeff G 78

Well if you do, PM me and I can paypal you my 25 dollars to help you along.

jeff

In my experience with doing several extractions, the failures were all related to insufficient connection strength where the tool attaches to the 12mm threads of the spindle pin. I mean you either rip the threads right off, or the threadsert threads in the tool gets pulled apart. Its not a matter of pulling power from the threaded rod.

Thanks for the input Jim. I will experiment with the design to maximize the connection strength.

I got a tool which utilizes the standard all-thread. I can say that it works well if you take it slow and add LOTS of heat to the strut casting. I broke my first all-thread from a combination of being too ambitious and slightly vague instructions. Turn the nut a little bit at a time and make sure the pin moves. Again, heat the strut casting like you're trying to melt the thing, I used MAPP gas. Of course, penetrating oil is a prerequisit for this job, but you already know that part!

Thanks Leon. Do you think an acme thread and bearing would improve the tool, or not?

It may improve the tool, but that is a qualitative statement. I'm not sure how much of an improvement it will be, and if it's worth the costs. The failure mode of my all-thread was actually at the nut end, the all-thread simply snapped off! The bar itself failed, the threads were just fine. I was actually able to reuse that one after cleaning up the threads a bit. I applied a healthy amount of grease to the tool as well, before use. So, judging by my experience, the only way the acme thread would improve the design is if the threaded rod itself is inherently stronger than the standard all-thread. I don't think I noticed any twisting, that is what the grease is for.

What size all-thread was your tool? The one my friend bought only has about a 5/8" all-thread. The wall is pretty thin where it is tapped for the M12x1.25. I was thinking 3/4", but it could be even larger.

What size all-thread was your tool? The one my friend bought only has about a 5/8" all-thread. The wall is pretty thin where it is tapped for the M12x1.25. I was thinking 3/4", but it could be even larger.

Something like that, I'll measure when I'm home. You are correct, the wall is thin where the M12 hole is tapped and that is exactly where failure occurred.

I'm in if your doing these. just PM or E-me

steve@p-t-s.com