Jeff,

I hope to get to do that over the weekend. I just have to find all the parts since it was dismantled to evaluate everything. We should have a thread on how to construct it with a parts list on the CZOT.org website very soon. Another member has the same puller and will be working with one of our prototypes to evaluate how well it operates. Lee's puller was a different design and is at the Z Clinc here in town. Kevin, the owner, will test one of the four prototypes as well.

No, I think you got it. I've not used such a device so all I can do is picture it in use. Last time I did this I used washers and a nut directly on the spindle tip, so I was wrenching maybe a half inch away from the A-arm. Was just thinking that the farther the wrench from the A-arm, the longer your moment arm will be in a direction you don't want it.

But in any event, cool... Sounds like a non-issue.

The only thing that we were not able to address to my satisfaction is separating the stud from the extracted pin. Depending on the amount of torque required to remove the pin, it can be difficult to separate the two without damaging the surface of the pin. We have used strips of rubber or leather wrapped around the pin to protect the surface from the teeth of vice grips or channel locks. However, we have still managed to scratch a pin's surface from time to time.

We file the burrs off, polish up with fine sand paper, coat with antisieze and reinstall the pins once the bushings have been replaced. Some pins come out with little effort and others take time. It really just depends on the environment the car was driven. Corrosion from de-icing agents isn't a problem in Central Texas, but car from up north may present a challenge to the design we have developed. The pre-removal prep may need additional processing to help deal with a more corrosive environment.

Steve, just thinking out loud here, but have you tried to reinstall the pin with the puller rod still attached and use the wedge bolt to hold it tight while you remove the rod via double nutting it?

Jeff, that's one thing I haven't tried! And it may work well. We've always just removed the pin so that it can be tapped back into place with a rubber mallet. I'd have to see if a mallet can still be used to reinstall it with the pin still attached to the stud. There may be enough room under the car to make this work. The two nuts tightened against each other on the stud would allow the pin to be indexed easily for installation of the key.

I have located all the parts and will post pics tomorrow or Sunday. It's not pretty, but works very well. Electro-Z of our club is a lifetime friend and the one that started modifying the design of the original pullers we purchased. He really should get credit for most of what has been done. I worked on finding a stud steel that compares to a Grade 8 bolt (our standard of hardness) and drilled/tapped both ends of the stud due to an breakage during extraction of the first pin on a bushing replacement project. Four different members had input over the last six months on the final design for the prototype. We all turn wrenches together just about every weekend on a First Gen Z.

Two things that we came up with on the puller:

- The pin can deform with the key inserted firmly. Rotation to separate the stud from the pin while it is installed may cause more deformation than just setting the key. This could make future removal more difficult.

- Since a lug nut can attach to the threads on a pin, it may be possible to spin the pin in place with an impact wrench. Several short bursts may be able break the pin free of the corrosion. Removal would be easier once the pin breaks free of the corrosion.

I have always wondered if the lock wedge serves any purpose at all. The nuts at each end hold the pin from moving lengthwise and I don't see the harm in allowing it to rotate as long as the nuts are installed with threadlock. One of two thins will happen It will either continue to rotate and will likely never get stuck again, or it will soon find a spot it likes and stay put just like the wedge would have done. When I installed new pins in my '78, I did install the wedge, but I was tempted to leave it out and simply RTV the holes closed to prevent moisture from entering the knuckle.

I think the key just allows you to center the pin and tighten the nuts on both sides. My 71 240 hasn't had the key in place for the last decade. Once the crevice corrosion starts, everything is pretty much locked in place. I don't think the nuts are even on the ends of the pin. My cars will get the pins pulled and new bushings soon. Again, just thinking out loud.

Attached are pictures of the pin puller that we redesigned.

Edited May 13, 201212 yr by Z-Engineer

Looks great Steve. How is the flare done on the tube? Is that a washer welded to the tube and ground smooth, or is it something else?

If you take a good look at the flared end (bottom picture), you should be able to see two flat washers welded to the end of a piece of pipe. The taper was made with an epoxy filler to keep it from catching on things. The tube was part of the original puller we purchased. As you can tell we have not drilled both ends on this stud yet. We want to make sure the lenth is acceptable before the other side is drilled and tapped. The flat washers, additional nut, harder alloy steel threaded stud and drilling both ends are the modifications we made. The original design was good for pulling a set or two of pins. The modifications will allow the puller to outlast those pulling.

Edited May 13, 201212 yr by Z-Engineer

From reading back through the thread, we may have purcahsed our original pullers from Gary some years back. His comments on the design describe our pullers pretty well. If he is the source of our pullers, he did a great job with the original design.