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Throttle opener control system?


Walter Moore

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I know this is an old topic but does anyone know if the bellows screws out or is it a slip fit just held in by the set screw?

My set screw broke so I had to drill it out but the bellows is still stuck. I don't want to ruin the bellows.

Edited by SurferD
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That was a great explanation thanks!

The crimp on the aluminum ring failed but I was able to tap the brass out. I'll drill/tap the ring to M6x1.0 and use a new set screw and restake it in the steel barrel.  The bellows shaft was really corroded so after cleaning/lube it will work fine. I also got the main part taken apart like the pics above and it's now free to rotate if adjustment is needed. Looks like both diaphragms are in decent shape after 50 years.

Edited by SurferD
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I don't have that upper part. My FSM has the same picture but it's not as crisp. The barrel actually deformed when the brass shaft was hammered out. So I took a washer the exact ID size and a long socket and put it in the vise and viola' back to stock shape. I did get a backup on eBay in case this one fails. I did learn however from carpartsmanual there were different units for automatic/standard transmissions and years. Mine is stamped 66P15.

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45 minutes ago, SurferD said:

I don't have that upper part.

They started with that upper part in 73. Prior years didn't have that.

It's a solenoid valve that they use to disable the opener system when the car isn't moving. In other words... When you blip the throttle at idle sitting still, it won't let the opener pull on the linkage.

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