To POR-15 or PowderCoat

[newtonhubcap]

Ok, I am getting confused as to what is the "best" route to go in finishing the suspension components (control arms linkages etc.). I know a lot have gone with powder coating but I am seeing that some are use POR-15 to paint suspension components and I have seen some have painted the interior of the car with POR-15.

As I have always done things, I want the best I can get.

Thanks ahead of your comments.

[robftw]

POR 15 it, you'll be glad you did 10 years from now

[EScanlon]

Defining "BEST" can be an exercise in an of itself.

I personally would have loved to have powder coated a LOT of items... except for the hazzles of disassembly, clean up and CO$T, followed by assembly and concern if it should chip and allow moisture to the base metal (low probability).

However, except for the hazzles of masking, clean up, co$t, and concern if it should chip and allow moisture to the base metal (also low probability) a whole lot more of the whole underside of the car would have been painted with POR than what I actually did.

That may read as a non-answer equivocation, but I hopefully mentioned the basics... in just a few words.

Powder coating.... you'll have to disassemble, and take the items to someone else to do properly. (And no, the Harbor Freight and your wife's kitchen stove are NOT the proper way of doing this.) That means time and money, then re-assembly taking care to properly clean up mating areas so that the powder coating doesn't interfere with function (tie-rod threaded ends, bolt holes, captive nuts that are no longer self-adjusting...) and you still have the problem of road debris possibly chipping the finish and allowing moisture to contact the metal. But powder coating is so damned attractive and pleasant to look at!!!

POR... Again, disassembly, prep work (clean, degrease, rinse, dry completely, etch, rinse, dry completely followed by respirator protection as you paint with lots of air circulation) and finally re-assembly taking LOTS of time tapping and chasing every screw hole / thread you have (you can't force thread through POR... trust me), and you still have the possibility of road debris. But POR CAN be done by a do-it-yourself shade tree mechanic at home... and it can generally be cheaper.

POR on the inside of the car is an obvious response to not being able to powder coat the floor (it CAN be done, but few have the $400 Quarts Infra-Red Heat Guns or the time required to bake it in 10" square sections).

Hope that helps clarify ... if only a bit.

E

[xs10shl]

On other cars I've done I've tended to powder coat what I could, because it's an inexpensive and durable finish. Perhaps it's also being a little lazy, because I don't have to clean the parts in advance - I can just hand them a grimy part and get back a new-looking part. Many powdercoaters who deal with car parts know where to place plugs so that holes don't get too small for bushings and the like.

One thing to make sure of is that you check mission-critical suspension points for cracks prior to powdercoating, if you go that route.

[ZCurves]

I agree with EScanlon & xs10shl, that is what I have done.

[newtonhubcap]

I really appreciate the responses but I am looking at durability bottomline. Which material provides the most durable coating for undercarage parts? I may not even need to do the interior in por-15 since I goal is to have the body and all sheet metal dipped and e-coated.

Thanks everyone,

newtonhubcap

[ZCurves]

Well, I believe that you would get the most durable job done by powdercoating. POR is a fine product, but powdercoating, when done correctly, is applied more evenly to a surface that is devoid of oil and rust. It is then baked on at 400° which gives it a pretty tough surface. Understand that all coatings can potentially be chipped off by rocks or other debris -but that risk would be the same no matter what you choose. Go with Chassis Black and you will get a smooth, extraordinarily durable finish that will look OEM. I see you are in Wis. so I still strongly suggest POR for the Pan, Fender Wells, Frame Rails. Use the Eastwood Heavy Duty Rust Inhibitor for all internal 'Blind' cavities (e.g. inside Frame Rails, Upper frame under the fenders, Rocker Panels and above the Wheel Wells.). Good luck with your project - be sure to post pics for us to see;)