High compression N/A build question

[madkaw]

Like I said, the year e-88 head makes a difference. I am probably running close to 10:1 (40cc chambers) right now and have no problem running premium and full ignition-BUT-I have done things to the head to minimize detonation. 200 will a bit tough for a L24 without a big cam-but don't be scared of a bigger cam in these engines-they like it!

TUNE! TUNE! TUNE! This isn't a bolt on deal

[Travel'n Man]

Do the Triples - you'll be glad you did!

If I had it to do over again I would go on out and up to the stroker crank - a little bigger cam - 200HP at the wheels will take some $$.............trust me!

[Co0kieduster]

Ok, I'm going to revive this thread with an update. I just had the chance last weekend to put my car on the Dyno for free . My brother graduated top of his class and as a reward was aloud a free dyno run with three other top performing students.

Anyway, I ran 108 max torque and 97 max hp. About what I expected.

We didn't rev past 5500 rpms because the instructor was afraid my cheap tires would blow up. He said it might clime a little higher but not much.

On the way home from Charlotte one of my carbs took a dump. I was told that a "valve" in the float bowl might be sticking causing it to flood those three cylinders. I have no interest in reviving the webers and am now saving my pennies for a set of triples!

Ill be sure to post the print out as soon as I get home from work.

[Zedyone_kenobi]

My advise is this. I have assembled a ton of engines in the past (albeit all ford and chevy V8's and a few lawnmowers). Do not get hung up on 200 HP or 194 HP or any HP number. Keep many things in mind. This is a daily driver, so having it run predictably and reliably should be of paramount performance. To get an L24 to hit 200 HP is going to take two things. A big cam and lots of compression. It is a balancing act really. Which means one thing. LOTS of tuning. If your into that, then great...but high strung engines require constant maintenance.

What is FAR more important is getting all the components, from the oil pump to the air filter to be matched to work together as a system, and not fight each other. A well matched engine that is tuned perfectly that puts out 180 HP will be FAR more enjoyable than a temperamental 200 HP motor that is always on the ragged edge of pinging, and can't idle and overheats.

Think robustness and reliability. And think part matching.

You are going with triples, they excel at higher RPM operation. Great, this goes with your larger cam. You will need a head that can flow well with as smooth a combustion chamber as you or your machinist can make. This will help mitigate detonation. A cam with a huge overlap between the exhaust and intake valves will eat into your overall compression. Any large cam will make your idle somewhat worse and compromise your power brakes in repeated stop and go driving as they just do not pull that much vacuum.

Growing up I was always the guy with the car that always ran, and was always fast. I never had the most money, but I buried my head in books and learned about the engines I was building from a basic level. What I learned is that money spent without knowledge is wasted. THe L series of engines were like coming home to me. The part interchangeability rivals the Small Block Chevy. Which is impressive. You can build quite the hot rod using nothing but OEM Datsun parts.

I hope that helps.

[Co0kieduster]

Thanks for the sound advise. I understand that 200 is just a number and I maybe should have said in my original post that I want at least 200. Just because i know that if I get close i wont know how to stop till I'm there or past it

I wish I had more than a measly NC state teacher salary to work with....maybe someday when I quit and my dream business dyno/tuning shop in my back yard becomes a reality and makes me $$$$ i'll build it all at once.

Until then, I believe i have a plan. Please feel free to bash it/correct it/have an opinion about it.

1st get triples.... 45mm

drive around with cool looking sounding carbs

2nd pull head send to shop for port and polish, flow bench work...etc

drive around with alot more power hopefully

3rd....get l28 block with flat top and mate with worked head and triples for 10:1 CR

Drive around with huge smile yay!

I've attached the Dyno sheet, guess it was 111 torque. Also a pic of the awesome driveway GF drives the s2k. Yes she makes more money than me and has no student loans :/

on a side note my z kept up with two ricers that were on the dyno that day as they both lost hp with pointless mods im guessing.

[madkaw]

I think you need to do #2 first and run your car with the stock SUs and tune it the best you can. Meanwhile you can find a L28 and go thru it while your driving around with a big smile on your face. Then bolt your fresh head on the L28 and start looking for your triples IMHO

[Co0kieduster]

problem is I don't don't have the SUs. I bought the car with DGVs on it. I suppose I could get the $40 rebuild kit and try to get them working since they are leaking everywhere and one is definitely not functioning properly. I don't see much info out there for help however, if I run into problems.

If I had SUs, then I agree completely, keep the SUs for now get triples later.

[BTF/PTM]

Rebello Racing is a great source of information for this sort of build. They were infinitely patient with me as I hit them with all these same questions. A five-minute conversation with them will teach you a lot.