The rear passenger side turn signal stopped working. However, the hazard fuction still works. I tried changing the flasher unit with no luck. Has anyone else encountered this problem.

Double check the bulb holder for any corrosion on the ends or on the bulb itself?

Check the turn signal switch that it is fully engaging, check the plastic steering column panel that it isn't interferring with the switch.

Try some electrical contact cleaner in the switch.

Check the wiring harness at the rear for any loose or corroded connections.

Failing that, check the ground wires on the harness in the back.

The turn signals and hazard lights use different flashers, although they use the same filaments in the bulbs.

Is the front RH turn signal working?

How about the light in the dash?

If those are working, have you checked the bulb on the RH rear light, as it may be as simple as a burned out bulb.

If on the other hand the complete right hand side turn signal isn't working, neither front, dash or rear, then I would check the turn signal switch.

2¢

On my 72 240Z, this symptom was just the beginning. Soon other turn signal lights failed to operate. Cleaning the turn signal switch inside the steering collumn helped temporarily, but soon the symptoms returned. Finally, I had to bite the bullet and buy a new turn signal switch.....at a cost of about $100. Allof the current for the turn signals is channeled throught the switch and carbon build-up and age takes it's toll. There have been several threads about this on the IZCC list over the years. You MAY be able to dis-assemble the switch to thoroughly clean the innerds, but it must be done with care, or the tabs that hold the switch together will break and then you are truely screwed and will have to buy a replacement switch.

Good Luck

Carl

The front RH and the light on the dash turn signal indicator is working. Only the rear light is not working. This would indicate the turn signal switch is O.K. ? The bulb is brand new even though the previous bulb filament was still good.

Sounds like it might be in the socket then, check inside for any corrosion and check the wires out carefully in the rear.

Is the bulb tight in the socket and fully seated?

Originally posted by morfirst

The front RH and the light on the dash turn signal indicator is working. Only the rear light is not working. This would indicate the turn signal switch is O.K. ? The bulb is brand new even though the previous bulb filament was still good.

morfirst:

No, unfortunately, this only means that currently (no pun intended) that only the contact for current to the rear right tail light is affected by 30 years of carbon and other crap fouling the inside of the switch. More will likely build-up as time goes by and will affect more of the other contacts inside the switch.

Now, before leaping to the assumption that the switch is indeed the problem, you must eliminate the other common causes. A burned out bulb, recent work that could have caused a broken wire, etc. Swap bulbs around to see if the symptom moves with a bulb. If not ...then you can use an ohm meter to check the continuity of the wires in the circuit from the switch to the bulbs. If all checks out good, then you are left with the switch as the culprit.

The only way to fix the switch is to disassemble and throughly clean and reassemble the switch, if can do so without breaking anything. Since what I'm describing is not a "broken" part, but simply a dirty and carbon-fouled item, you cannot see anything broken, when you open the switch (if you do). What you will see is the junk and carbon-tracking on the contacts that causes the problem which must be removed. then you reassemble the switch exactly as it was, only much cleaner inside. It is tedious and nerve-racking for me to do this, so I bit the bullet and simply bought a new switch which cured the problem instantly. But at a cost of about $100.

PS I tried for a year to avoid buying the switch by tracing the wires, and then repeatedly spraying electrical contact cleaner into the switch. When I used the cleaner things would get a bit better for a while, but the symptoms always returned and progressivly got worse. Eventually the front left turn signal would not work either.

If any of you guys remember Scott Bruning from ZTherapy, he's the one who put me onto the cause and two possible cures for this problem. From my experience, he was right.

I am having a similar problem- the whole left side (including tach) indicators would not work, but they would when i turned on the alarm. So today i bought a new flasher unit which fixed the problem for about three seconds, then the indicators faded and have stopped working, but the flasher unit is still working cause i can hear it clicking (which i couldn't before) Does this sound like the switch?

So today i bought a new flasher unit which fixed the problem for about three seconds, then the indicators faded and have stopped working, but the flasher unit is still working cause i can hear it clicking (which i couldn't before) Does this sound like the switch?

Humm, not sure about that one. Since you couldn't hear the flasher before, but do hear the new one now. Maybe something is damaging your flasher unit? Did / Do the right side signals still work normally? I don't know how your alarm would affect this situation. My limited experience is on unmodified electrical systems. Sorry I can't be much help.

yeah, the right side works fine. I meant by they work when the alaem is on is that when you arm or disarm it the indicators flash like they should, but they don't work when you actually indicate to turn left. The way they do that sounds like it could be the switch as it is only faulty on the left side. or possibly dodgy wiring? :disappoin

Alansz:

Double check the bulb holders for any corrosion on the ends or on the bulbs themselves. Clean as necessary. Swap bulbs around Right side to left side to see if the symptom moves with a bulb. If not and you haven't done any creative wiring around the time that the symptom appeared, I'd tihink it might be the switch. Try spraying contact cleaner into the little boxy section of the switch that holds the contacts. If the situation improves when you do this. You've found the problem. If not, well it could still be the problem, but you won't know for sure unless you can swap in another switch from a known working Z just to confirm the point. Do you have a Bud nearby that would let you borrow the switch from his car for a hour or two? They are relatively easy to swap in and out. I'd try that before buying a switch since they cost so much. My car's first turn signal switch lasted 30 years, if I get 30 years out of the $100 one that I bought, I'll be happy.

Good Luck

You say that all the lights work when the alarm blinks them on when arming or disarming.

You might want to check for continuity THROUGH the connection box for the alarm. Depending on whether they spliced into the wiring harness with piggy back connectors or actually stripped and cut in, they may have inadvertently disconnected the switch side of the circuit from the left turn signal.

2¢