where to start?

[LeonV]

1) Horsepower fell from 150 in the 240 to a low of 129 with the 260 in the U.S. because of emission controls and also picked up a couple 100 pounds, much of it concentrated at the ends of the car. Made in sluggish both in a straight line and in the corners.

Not true. The way power was measured changed. Power in the 260Z was up over the 240Z, contrary to popular belief. FWIW, the ID plate in the engine compartment of my early 260Z lists the L26 at 162hp.

There is an early and a late 260. I doubt the early one "picked up a couple 100 pounds" not sure on the late one as I think it was a 280Z chassis (beefier) with 260Z running gear. The only changes I see from my 240Z to my early 260Z that noticeably affect weight are a larger amount of wiring and slightly sturdier bumpers with shocks. I just don't think that adds up to 200lb.

[Threehz]

Slight, about how much rust is too much..

How much rust is a matter of your opinion and your commitment to the car both time-wise, energy-wise and financially.

Maybe someone who has been through a rust-bucket ordeal (definitely some people on this forum have lived that nightmare) can tell you more about how much is too much. It's hard to give any solid definition but understanding rust is a good start.

Surface rust - if you can scratch the rusted area with a key or screwdriver lightly and see metal then that can be easily taken care of and is called surface rust.

Paint bubbling - if you see an area that is painted but has little bubbles in the paint or warping then it is very likely that rust is eating the metal underneath. This can be a LOT worse underneath that paint. If you see a lot of this on a car this could mean that somewhere along the road someone gave the Z poorly executed paint job, OR painted the Z to hide things (like rust...)

Rust spots - when there are actual rust spots that have come through the paint these can be just as they appear and may not be too bad, OR they can mean a lot more rust underneath or on the other side of this area.

Rust holes - when there are actual holes that have rusted through this is obviously pretty bad in that area and can definitely mean more rust around the area.

Severe rust is pretty obvious when you see it and usually if there is severe rusting anywhere on the body you want to be pretty damn cautious and probably walk away unless you plan on committing a lot of money and time to repairing the body (before you ever think about driving the car or doing other work).

Anyhow many other people on here have more experience then me but that is some basic rust info, the idea of rust on a car should instantly make you cringe in my opinion.

[Slight]

indeed, thanks for the simple lay out.. for now I suppose I should do as much looking as I can, then eventually just make the jump and get one, check it thoroughly and pray for the least amount of hidden rust hehe

then roll with it.

oh, I was wondering what you folks thought of Yuta's 240z (that slammed/ratrod car that went viral..)

http://speedhunters.com/archive/2009/11/04/car-feature-gt-gt-that-240z.aspx - then

http://www.loxlee-loves-engines.com/the-heartbreaker-datsun-240z/ - now

i guess this is one of those cars that inspired me a bit, i love the aggressive vibe it gives. keeping in mind that Yuta plans to paint and restore the car.. it's still pretty cool to see the work in progress.

the interior looks sick, and i do enjoy that colour combo.. the flat gret with black/gold accents..

I know this car has stirred a lot love/hate; just wondering your opinions and why =)

[Threehz]

I think it's wicked, I mean, I wouldn't have done such shoddy work on the exterior (specifically the flares). If people hate the fact that he "ruined" a classic car, come on. For all the 240's out there in this world at least he really put his heart into it and is driving that car to the bone.

I'd like to pick up another 280 shell and throw an RB25DET under the hood.

If you plan on doing a lot of modding, tuning and styling that really opens up your range of cars to look for because keeping things stock isn't your highest priority.

I would go for something like this http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/cto/2626077564.html

[Slight]

definitely agree, he's working with what he has, on his budget... and man is it a looker..

ooh.. that is cool; so with something like that.. first things i would think: can i pull of those bumpers and replace with cleaner front and rear bumpers (ie. like a 240?)

maybe a place like http://motorsportauto.com/products.html or others would have options?

[Slight]

or something like this? http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/cto/2587417697.html

granted not many photos to go on..

[Threehz]

You can definitely replace those with the 240 bumpers and in fact I think the 240 bumpers looks even better on 280s haha! However you will have to find 240 bumpers! Since I got my 280 I have been debating replacing the bumpers with 240 bumpers or at least something to make it not so obvious that it's missing the old bumpers (There is a little indent in the side of the fender where the bumper ends bolt on, in fact you can see it in the first photo of the ad you posted, not easy to see though). I think the best place to find 240 bumpers is a junkyard or on sites like this one.

Other then 240 bumpers I don't know what other replacements there are for the stock 280 bumpers but I'm sure there are some, and you can always make something.

That Z also looks like a good deal, sounds like he did some good work on the interior/exterior and if the insides are running well it'd be very nice to start with a fresh clean Z. Of course you don't know anything until you get there.

Along those lines I just read this in another thread yesterday and it's a great idea when checking out a Z or any old car. Feel the engine of the Z before the owner turns it on or you drive it. If it's already warm or hot then it is likely that the driver started it up before hand to make sure it ran and started smoothly, cold starts can show a lot of problems, but once it's warmed up a lot of that is masked.

[Slight]

Good to know, yeah I read that too.. if I get my cousin to look at it I think I'll ask the seller to not warm it up prior.

I haven't heard from the guy with the green one.. but from what the owner of the black car says.. it's pretty darn reliable. I think I'll try to check some z's close to town before I commit though heh

although considering the price..

the green z is considerably cheaper..

probably for a good reason

[Threehz]

Yeah the black one sounds like a legitimate deal and it is priced pretty accordingly, did you happen to get the mileage on the black one?

I too have to wonder why the green one is going that cheap.

Definitely is quite a distance from you though haha, for your sake I hope something nice pops up closer to you!

[Slight]

hehe yeah, it'd be quite the trip back.

I'll have to check that.. although I feel like as long as I can find one that is in good condition.. that mileage is almost irrelevant.. kind of heh

[Slight]

ah he says, 46k on the tach.. but probably 146 or 246

[Jetaway]

Not true. The way power was measured changed. Power in the 260Z was up over the 240Z, contrary to popular belief. FWIW, the ID plate in the engine compartment of my early 260Z lists the L26 at 162hp.

There is an early and a late 260. I doubt the early one "picked up a couple 100 pounds" not sure on the late one as I think it was a 280Z chassis (beefier) with 260Z running gear. The only changes I see from my 240Z to my early 260Z that noticeably affect weight are a larger amount of wiring and slightly sturdier bumpers with shocks. I just don't think that adds up to 200lb.

I await further confirmation on the power output. Are you saying that the 240Zs used SAE Gross (which could well be true) while the 260Zs used SAE Net?

I was cleaning my 240Z one afternoon and found a butterfly smashed against it in the only dent, a small one, that it had. I joked to my son that the butterfly dented my bumper. (See photo) I was joking, yes, but not that much of a stretch.

My bumper weighs next to nothing and the mounting brackets, not much. I wouldn't be at all surprised that the bumpers and the brackets, not to mention strengthened attachment posts on a 260Z push 250 lbs. Take my "next to nothing" and make it 50 lbs (probably a little less.) and there's 200 right there.

Chris