Brake rebuilding time. Lots o' questions!

[FastWoman]

Hi all,

I guess it's time for the next project on my '78. My brake light kindly came on to let me know that. I checked my reservoirs, and the smaller one was right at the low-mark. I topped it off, and the light went out. However, I know that doesn't fix it.

I'm guessing the smaller reservoir is for the rear brakes, right?

I haven't done a lick of work to the brakes in the time I've owned the car. Now seems like the time to go through it from front to back, refreshing/refurbing/replacing everything. However, this is my DD, so before I launch into this project, I want to have all supplies on hand. (I do have another car to go to the parts store if necessary.) Can y'all help me refine my shopping list?

I don't need new front rotors or brake pads. Those are fine. I don't know the condition of the rear drums and shoes. What would I expect from a 160k Z? Should I order new shoes, or should I just wait and see?

I suspect I do need new hydraulic hoses all around -- stainless braided if possible. Any suggested suppliers?

I'm guessing I need to either rebuild or replace my rear brake cylinders and my front calipers. In my experience, auto parts store rebuilt brake parts are universally crappy, and it's my preference not to trust my life to them. However, I see that MSA sells remanufactured calipers. How are they? As I recall, the pistons are iridium plated and the plating can often be violated as rust sets in underneath. Are the pistons in the rebuilt calipers iridium plated?

MSA's rear brake cylinders are new. Are cylinders not worth rebuilding? Any comment on the quality?

Are there any good sources on brake caliper and cylinder rebuilding kits?

Finally, I know that the hard fuel lines can have internal rust issues. Is the same true of the hard brake lines? Is it worth replacing them, or should I just stay with what I have?

I know these are a lot of questions. I'd love to hear your suggestions on any of them.

Thanks, y'all!

Peace,

Sarah

[FastWoman]

Anyone use MSA's stainless braided hoses? How are they?

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PBC08/24-5121

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Are these MSA 4-piston caliper kits worth considering?

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/PBC07

What sort of car do they come from?

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And has anyone used MSA's rear disc conversion kit? Is it worth the money to do this if you're not racing?

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PBC12/24-5583

Edited October 4, 2011 by FastWoman

[Zed Head]

Re the stainless lines -

I bought a set and they installed with no problems and they are of high quality. I don't know who Earl is (the black tag on the lines) but he appears to be popular (has a variety of parts in the JEGS catalog), and appears to make some good stuff. Beware though - off-road use only! (the yellow tag). Don't get caught.

If you've not had the brake lines off for quite a while, or ever, plan on spending some time getting the fittings loose. If I was starting your project I would go directly to vise-grips; wire-brushing, cleaning and filing to shape each nut line nut before clamping on the grips and breaking them loose. I would bet good money that you won't get a single one loose with even the best flare wrench in the universe. Plus the brackets will probably not hold the big nut on the fitting for the flexible line so plan on taking the clip off and using an an open end wrench.

Edited October 4, 2011 by Zed Head

[ncolz]

I've had decent luck by putting vice grips over the flare wrench -- keeps the flare wrench from spreading and doesn't tear up the nut on the brake line. Squirt them down with PB-Blaster or the home-brew 50-50 acetone & Automatic Transmission Fluid first.

A few choice words later, and you should be good to go.

[FastWoman]

I'd never heard that trick! Thanks!

[LeonV]

I haven't had trouble using a flare wrench on my lines, just use rust penetrant and clean the nuts before attempting, as mentioned. Use a 10mm flare wrench on one side and a 19mm (or 17mm, don't recall exactly) on the big nut. Go slow and don't let the wrench slip.

I'm using braided MSA lines without a problem, just make sure you don't kink them on installation. As far as the "off-road only" tag, it's not etched into the brake lines and can be easily removed. Regardless, I doubt anyone would be inspecting your soft brake lines if you get pulled over, especially if your car is stock-ish (i.e. doesn't look or try to look like a "race car").

Otherwise, inspect the brakes and see if they need attention. Go by the FSM, check for leaks and wear, and correct as necessary. Adjust the rear brakes.

[robftw]

I have a set of cylinders and SHOES brand new

I bought them for a 77-78 on accident 35 shipped and they're yours

it will save you a bunch of money

[FastWoman]

Thanks, Leon... No, my car looks pretty stock. Are SS braided brake lines somehow not suited for street use? Are they not allowed in some states? I think I remember installing a set on the '75 Z I had back in the 80's and early 90's, but alas my memory is questionable right now.

[FastWoman]

Rob! THANKS!!! I'll PM you.

[LeonV]

Thanks, Leon... No, my car looks pretty stock. Are SS braided brake lines somehow not suited for street use? Are they not allowed in some states? I think I remember installing a set on the '75 Z I had back in the 80's and early 90's, but alas my memory is questionable right now.

I'm betting the tag is just because the lines have not been certified by the DOT, or something to that effect. You'll be fine with using them, I haven't had any problems and they look so purdy!

[Zed Head]

I was joking. Probably not DOT-approved as Leon says, but probably much safer than the rubber ones, much harder to cut and would probably drag a wheel and hub along if it broke off, saving nearby pedestrians.

While you're doing the backs you might observe how the shape of the shoe fits the drum. I found that the shoes seemed to be designed for a larger drum. It took quite a few miles to wear them in to where they had good stopping power. I could feel them wearing by how far the parking brake handle moved (which is also the adjusting mechanism). Someone, cygnusx1 I believe, had some issues with weak back brakes after a brake job, recently. If I was doing it again, I would probably shape the edges of the shoes down with a file to get more contact.

On the back brakes - it will probably be difficult to get the drums off.

Edited October 4, 2011 by Zed Head

[robftw]

Just hit the drums with a rubber mallet, they come right off