I ran two strips of peel and seal inside the door panel. I figured the vapor barrier would keep the smell out.

It made a noticeable difference in the "tap" test.

I forgot to do the right side door before installing the window mechanism, however, I easily installed it afterwords simply with the window rolled up.

I put the Peal and Seal inside the doors of my truck a few years ago and recently noticed that it had come loose and fallen to the bottom of the door. Of course we have nearly 100 degree days in the summer and 30 below in the winter, so I'm sure that didnt help much. Good luck.

Brent

Did the same procedure with Dynamat. Reduced road noise from the front section a lot. And it sticks like s*it. I also covered all the "extra" peek holes with dynamat, you can always take them off if you need to look under.

i bought butyl sound deadening material from megamat, zero smell. the lower level dynomat, like peel and seal, uses basically road tar so it stinks when hot and shrinks when cold so adhesion can be an issue. Dynomat makes butyl based material as well in their "Xtreme" series but it was super expensive.

I used vinyl sound deading material that I got a few years ago from McMaster Carr. Works well, no smell. Will see how well it adheres over time...

Not a great photo of the other side of the door; however, you can see where I placed small pieces of peel and seal to further dampen vibrations.

I found that placing it in the middle of larger spots and also wrapping around the edge of long openings helped a lot when doing the "tap" tests.

I sealed the door so the smell of this will not enter the cabin.

FYI I only used 2 rolls of peel and seal on the whole car as I only brought 2 into Canada from the USA and because I could not source it locally as it was all just paper-backed... however (for us Canucks) my brother recently found it (foil backer) at a new hardware store in my region called Rona.

Found a better photo

I think were at about the same spot in our restoration.

I went with LizardSkin inside the doors sprayed extra thick.

NICE!

Young Green Grasshopper:

I would recommend trying to use clear vinyl tubing or layers of heat shrink on all of the push rods in the door mechanisms as they rattle.

Don't forget to glue a rubber pad at the bottom inside of the door where the window will hit at full drop.

Refreshing the grommet in the inner door lever is nice to do as well as installing a bumper for the tip.

Finally, a rubber layer surrounding the first bump in the door's latching mechanism is supposed to help closing... search this one. I have not tried it yet.

Edited November 5, 201113 yr by Blue

Very timely advice Lone Blue Man. Will do!

check this:http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?17999-73-Z-door-latch-bushing-thickness

I did this a few years ago myself with Peel and Seal. I even used inside the cabin on the firewall and never noticed a smell. It is also on my floorboards and I may line the rear deck and spare tire well some time in the future.