First Zcar need some advice....

[koyote]

Hi everybody, My name is Richard and for 25 years I've wanted a Zcar, My brother in law had one, that he let me take for a spin and I fell in love, I'm finally in a spot in my life to work on one.

I like to fix things myself but doing body work is not a strong point of mine. I rebuilt a 1988 blazer from ground up about 6 years ago with some help from a friend that worked in a body shop for 25 years. Now I've had my buddy look at this 1976 280z and he said that it could be fixed but would require some new frame rails and some sub frame work. I'm going into this with both eyes open as a full restoration and have even looked at finding a rotisserie. I want a car that is stock and that I can make my own and have the satisfaction of doing the work, with a little help from my buddy the body man.

It runs and has some extra parts including front and rear sway bars and lowing springs (new in box) & fibreglass bumpers. Everything is there but the passenger seat. It needs work on the interior as well, the owner is asking $1200.00 Cnd and I was thinking offering him less. as the frame needs work. On first talking to him he thought that the frame was in good shape, but with it sitting for a couple years it’s started to take it’s toll. The owner told me that he wants to get the money out of the new parts that he has.

So my question is for $800.00 cnd or close to that, is it worth it? I'm kind of sitting on the fence about this car and need your help. I'm prepared to spend 3 years and around $15000.00 cash, without having to finance it.

Edited October 10, 2011 by koyote

[koyote]

More picks

[ZCurves]

Well, it looks like you will have to replace both Frame Rails and maybe the Passengers Floorboard. There is also patch work to be done on above the Radius Arms which is typical of a Z in your climate. Have you looked at the other trouble areas (Under rear deck, Battery Try, Dog legs, Rockers, Radiator Support, behind Tail Lamps, etc.). I guarantee you that there is more rust (but you covered the most critical areas).

Are any other potential project Zcars available for consideration ($$$ vs. Rust vs. Time)???? I just want to make sure that you aren't blinded by feelings of "I could fix this".

I would say that this Z is worth $800 - $1000 or cheaper if you can get it. You said you realize what you are getting into and have a generous budget.

So, If you have looked and there is no alternative Z that would make a better project car and you are comfortable, I say make your best deal and go for it. You will have more than enough support here on this forum.

Keep us posted and include Pics!!

[koyote]

Thanx I didn't look under the battery tray but the rear deck and stut towers are in good shape. And there are a couple others up here but most are $3500.00 and in a bit better state(not much better), but I just don't trust the posting (no rust) as I've learned that this is a over used term in describing 280z's. There is one that is a 76 2+2 with no motor and he wants $700.00 but I have not seen it as I don't like the 2+2's.

Edited October 10, 2011 by koyote
new info

[LeonV]

Around here that's a $500 parts car, with the "new" parts included.

[jfa.series1]

FWIW... this could easily be one of those "break your heart and bankbook" cars. I doubt that you will get out for as little as $15K on top of your purchase price - especially since you state an interest in restoration. Ask yourself what street value you will have when you finish and have invested all this money. I assure you it will be substantially less than your investment. Better to hold out and locate a car in much better shape as your starting point.

Jim

[Threehz]

I will agree with Leon and Jim.

From where you are located I'll assume finding a "rust-free" Z is quite a challenge, however I'm sure there are a lot of Z's near you that are in much much better shape. Especially if you are looking for a 280, which are a lot more common and have been less exposed then 240's especially as well as 260's. If you want to really put that much time and money into your Z, then you should be willing to look a little ways away from where you are. I would be gladly willing to travel 500miles if I had to just to find the right Z to start with.

This is just my opinion but I would forget about this Z, it will bring you more pain then anything else. I've seen quite a few projects that started out like this get completely abandoned, even after lots of time, money and effort were poured into it. That's just my opinion, if your heart is attached to this Z then that's that.

Rust in areas that don't hold the entire uni-body car together is "easily" fixable compared to places like the frame rails.

If you can't find anything near you I say expand your search, that and a little time will bring many more Z's that are in far better condition.

My 2 cents, hope the search goes well!

[koyote]

My thinking right now is that I could buy a $3500.00 to $9000.00 car strip the undercoating away and find a nightmare under that. Thats why I was looking at this car because I know what I'm getting But...

I've found another body, but it has no powertrain, I hope to look at it tonight as for the owner says it's the best z he's ever seen (But he wants a 2+2). So I think that I might try to pick both up. The red one for the powertrain (parts) and the black one for the body, if it's in good shape...... I'll let you all know. And thanx for all the feed back.

Threehz, I have looked in three provinces and with out any luck for my price range, $3500.00 to start. I'm a little paranoid with the NO RUST posts

[Threehz]

I guess I don't realize how different the Z world is down here in the dry heat.

If the black one has a solid rust free(er) body then getting both sounds like a great idea. It will definitely be helpful to have a car with everything in place to reference when installing everything into the new car.

Good luck, keep us updated!

[Oiluj]

I'll echo what's been stated above. It's much more economical to spend a bit more up-front on a car in better condition. They are out there if you look, even if you have to drive a few hours to see it. I loked for over 6-months to find the best 240 I could find to restore.

Look at condition of the electrical system as well, but don't worry about the clock, (90%+ original clocks don't work).

Just so you know, the 2+2 is heavier and doesn't "feel" as sporty to drive as the stock 2 seater. If you've got small kids to carry around, the 2+2 is a good option that's still fun to drive. This may offend some, but in my opinion, if you want a true sports car, stick with a 2-seat version.

YMMV

[koyote]

Oiluj I'd have to say the same, The guy with the black car wants to get rid of his two seater and get a 2+2 so I'm hoping to get out and see it in the next couple days.

[FastWoman]

The guy with the black car wants to get rid of his two seater and get a 2+2

Maybe one with a nice automatic?

Edited October 13, 2011 by FastWoman