Kit Supplier: Black Dragon Auto

I picked out this kit because, compared to others when shopping, it was a complete kit. It even includes the e-brake handle cover with 4 snaps (not in the description below) so I had ordered one in parallel.

The material quality of finish is fine. The vinyl is not as thick as stock. The cloth backing is adequate. The only problem is the fit of the vinyl. Here are the problems I encountered

1. The back section of wheel well covers were very baggy and the plastic inserts not sufficiently big.
   
2. The front section of the wheel well covers was different. The right side fit much better than the left.
   
3. A lack of "extra material" at the rear of the transmission tunnel made it is difficult to have the luggage riser cover the gap.
   
4. The transmission tunnel gap in the centre of the luggage riser was too wide exasperating "minding the gap".
   

Fortunately the roof, the header and the two A pillar vinyls are fine.

It is also worth noting that the rear hatch finisher is plain (no vents) and the side dogleg panels do not have silver beading trim.

Some extra cutting is required but it is not complicated. There is one pre-cut in the transmission tunnel that should be on the reverse side. It makes tucking the flap into the seat brace less efficient.

The technique I used to install was:

1. Pre-fit / trial fit each vinyl piece using masking tape to hold in place.
   
2. Make mental notes of sequence of installation and any cuts required.
   
3. Make the basic required cuts and folds dry so that vinyl sits in approximate place. Take your time. (I found it best to complete the detailed cuts when wet with glue as the material does not always fall into the same location).
   
4. Decide whether to remove the vinyl and spray it with adhesive "off line" or to spray it in place. Also plan the spray direction and the pressing direction and the press-in-place sequence and direction. Pre-planning will never hurt you.
   
5. Check fittings/overlap where two pieces will overlap/finish.
   
6. Mask all areas using masking tape and use drop cloths to prevent over spray. When spraying always consider over spray before pulling the trigger.
   

For adhesive, I used 3M Super 77. I used 2 cans in total as well as a seemingly generic can that came with the vinyl kit (it sprayed in an interesting web pattern). The 3M 77 can included 2 interchangeable nozzles: a red (stored in the cap) for a very directed pattern and white for a wide pattern. I used red for all except the roof liner where the wider white pattern helped with even distribution. The red was great for touch-ups and also when spraying when the vinyl and metal were nearly together.

Wear lung and eye protection as the aerosol adhesive will slowly glue your lungs and eyes.

The order of installation I followed was:

1. Header Foam
   
2. Header Vinyl
   
3. Passenger A Pillar Foam
   
4. Passenger A Pillar Vinyl
   
5. Driver A Pillar Foam
   
6. Driver A Pillar Vinyl
   
7. Roof Liner Passenger Half
   
8. Roof Liner Driver Side
   
9. Back Wheel Well Vinyl Passenger side
   
10. Front Wheel Well Vinyl Passenger side
    
11. Back Wheel Well Vinyl Driver side
    
12. Front Wheel Well Vinyl Driver side
    
13. Transmission Tunnel Vinyl
    
14. Luggage Riser Vinyl
    
15. Passenger Door Sill Vinyl
    
16. Driver Door Sill Vinyl
    

It is best that all wiring harnesses and speaker wires are run; all holes are sealed; all insulation and sound deadening is in place.

Heads-Up List

1. Header Foam: Trim after in place.
   
2. Header Vinyl: Must be centered and it folds back on itself. Mark the centers including the rubber stripping that holds it into the pinch weld. Don't forget to trim the excess material that will be tucked inside so that it does not bulge the material.
   
3. Passenger A Pillar Foam: Trim after in place
   
4. Passenger A Pillar Vinyl: Start at coat hook and work forward. Take your time at the corner fold at the top of the A pillar. Try to make both folds the same on left and right side. Measure 10 times, cut once. You can do the horizontal section, then the pillar section.No need to rush and do both at same time. It is important to start far enough back so that quarter panel plastic will cover the vinyl AND it is important to finish far enough into the dash area so that the windshield seal and dash cover up to the vinyl.
   
5. Driver A Pillar Foam
   
6. Driver A Pillar Vinyl
   
7. Roof Liner Passenger Half: Mark center; pre-fit and test stuff into gap. Make sure there is not "too much to stuff". It is better to cut excess dry rather than when wet. Don't spray glue within 6" to 8" of edge so that stuffing will go easy. Bubbles in foam/liner seem to disappear when glued
   
8. Roof Liner Driver Side:
   
9. Back Wheel Well Vinyl Passenger side. Test fit, re-fabricate new cardboard inserts if it is baggy. Cut out bolt holes dry.
   
10. Front Wheel Well Vinyl Passenger side: Mask back piece when spraying at over-lap area. Cut holes for seat belt bolts. Make sure dog-leg will finish nicely against the vinyl.
    
11. Back Wheel Well Vinyl Driver side
    
12. Front Wheel Well Vinyl Driver side
    
13. Transmission Tunnel Vinyl: Tape in place at top of tunnel (do both sides at same time and centre it). Make all pre-cuts. Do not cover ebrake electrical line. ensure vinyl goes into luggage riser so no gap is left AND ensure that no gap is up front near heater where floor mats go. Glue the vinyl in place when taped. Work from top to bottom. Cut holes for seat belt bolts.
    
14. Luggage Riser Vinyl: Align top of vinyl ~ 3mm below top edge. Ensure it is centered on tunnel and no gap is shown at back of tunnel
    
15. Passenger Door Sill Vinyl: Align with top of door sill pinch weld. Do not glue pinch weld. Work from seat belt bolt towards front of car
    
16. Driver Door Sill Vinyl: Is the coaxial antenna routed?
    

When gluing, it is best to wipe the metal with a solvent then let it dry. Spray adhesive on the metal and also on the back of the fabric. Wait a few minutes then install. If you install instantly after gluing then you can work the material into place easier but there is no "tack"to hold things in place. You must balance wet sliding verses holding... you will know what I mean.

Edited October 11, 201113 yr by Blue

Note the the bump in the center pinch weld above the mirror area.

This photos shows the back, side and front areas where the roof liner gets stuffed, only glue up to 3" or so away from this when installing the roof liner.

There are 3 trim pieces that hold the vinyl to the two side pinch welds and to the front pinch weld

The A Pillar vinyl starts behind the front of the 1/4 window. It is best to remove these windows when installing.

In this photo, you can see the area where the roof liner is installed. It has rusted over the years and the painters. Some neutralizing spray would be a good preventative action.

The foam goes on first and has two sides. The fabric side holds the glue and attaches to the metal

An old blanket and the car cover make a quick and dirty drop-sheet

Spray an even mist on the foam and on the metal, wait 5 min then attach.

Use a sharp NEW box cutter to trim the foam to shape. The kit's foam is extra wide so you have to trim a lot. For a puffy look, layer the foam.

HOWEVER, the pinch welds have to hold the vinyl and/or the fastening trim and/or the window rubber so DO NOT FOAM ANY PINCH WELDS.

That was easy!

Edited October 11, 201113 yr by Blue

Mark the centre on all parts

even at the back

even on the trim that holds the vinyl into the pinch-weld (the flash maked it difficult to see the white dot from the factory

The first step of the installation is to test-fasten the vinyl to the pinch weld in the centre above the mirror then work to each side. The vinyl is "arse-backwards" at this point...just go with it...you are now enrolled into Applied Spacial Geometry 101.

Then test-pull the vinyl around to the front of the window frame and make sure you have enough material to bond to the front of pinch weld at the top of the window frame. Also ensure that you have enough material for each side. AND make sure the wrapped part is puffy and wrinkle free to your liking.

When happy with the test fit, mask the areas (blue masking tape and drop clothes worked for me).

Cut the vinyl that would otherwise be trapped underneath the wrap so that it does not cause wrinkles and bumps.

Spray the vinyl and window's top drip edge.

You can choose to spray or not spray where the foam and corresponding vinyl mate:

spraying pros: spraying foam and mating surface make a stronger long-term bond

not spraying pros: not spraying foam and mating surface make it easier to install and adjust as the vinyl does not grab and tack to the foam when you install.

Wait 15 - 20 min for the glue to get tacky.

Fold the vinyl up to the pinch weld in the centre and work outwards towards each side.

Sit in the car and scrutinize your work as you go.

You will have to make diagonal cuts in the vinyl at the corners of the window to seat correctly. Cut just as you are attaching there.

Remember that the A pillar trim will cover both ends of the header so don't worry too much about the ends other than going out far enough so there is no gap.

Again the same procedure:

Glue foam

Cut foam

Test fit vinyl "backwards" and hang it from the pinch weld using the trim stripping.

Work from the coat hook forward and remove quarter windows.

I forgot to mention above (AND CAN NOT EDIT GRRRRRRR): it is good to tap the trim stripping with a rubber hammer to seat it.

Once happy with the fit, cut the excess material. Also you will have to get the corner cuts and folds tested right where the roof and A pillar meet.

You can do this job in two steps: 1 along the roof and 2 along the pillar.

Note how much masking is needed!

I only applied glue to the outer pinch weld where the door seal goes as well as where the material will wrap. Let it tack for 15-20 min before pressing in place.

Photos now on left side:

Glue material only where the pinch weld will touch.

Seat the trim stripping at the pinch weld and cut away the excess material underneath. Measure 10 times and cut once.

Here is test fitting the fold and corner cut at the corner of the windshield. Note the incorrect cut I made in the header. I managed to glue it well underneath then hid it under the A pillar material's fold... I was lucky....learn from this and measure and test fit before cutting.

Testing the fold even more

A photo of the A pillar Foam and how far it goes. No need to put it near the pinch welds.

Here is the starting point

Edited October 11, 201113 yr by Blue

When the pillar vinyl is ready to go, spay the pinch weld on both sides of the pillar (at door seal and windshield).

The vinyl should be run as far down past the pillar as possible so that the dash and kick panel and window/door seals cover all body metal from being exposed.

Masked

Glued (See you can take your time and do these pieces in two steps)

Masked at door seal side

Detail of the cuts at the corner

Glued and folded and ready to go.

Tucked into place

Look no slice. The final pulling has not been completed in the photo nor the cuts at the lower corner of the windshield made.

Here is what the finished trim looks like around the windshield after the excess is cut and the glue sets.

Another shot of the windshield pinch-weld. The rubber windshield seal with cover all of this

Edited October 11, 201113 yr by Blue

More photos of the trimmed vinyl at the door seal drip edge.

Finished

Here is a detail of the completed vinyl showing the amount at the dash corner.

Also you can see how the door seal grabs the pinch weld...thus my comments above about not putting foam there.

Here is how the window seal ties it all together. Too bad the flash makes the photo uglier than in person.

Next up... the headliner

Nice photo journal. Been there, done that. Only part I found to be difficult was the rear sturt tower covers.

  Oiluj said:

Nice photo journal. Been there, done that. Only part I found to be difficult was the rear sturt tower covers.

I agree.The stock ones fit well. I have refreshed the covers in a 240z and 260z and they fit fine, however those in the BD kit fit poorly due to incorrect shape when sewn together.

Now to finish this thread with the headliner.

Here is a comparison of the old, stinky, yellow roof liner / head liner below the new liner.

An upholstery expert from our club mentioned that steam can sometimes revive foam.

As Jim Karst mentioned in another post on this site, the new liner is quite stiff and, when stuffed into place, it does not need to be taped up when the glue is seting.

I used tape to mark the middle of each end. This helps when aligning.

Note the bubbles. I left this liner in the sun for a day in an attempt to remove them but no luck. I also hit them with heat from a hair dryer and again no luck... so after applying glue and sticking to the roof, they disappeared.... go figure.

Here are photos of 1/2 of the liner glued in place.

I did not seem to take photos after these (or maybe I missed them).

Anyway to get one side into place, load the roof and fabric with glue but stay away from the edges as they will be stuffed under the metal surrounding the roof perimeter. The liner has to slide into this area so glue will just cause problems.

Make sure the glue is 20min tacky before putting the first half of the liner up so that it stays. Once it is up, apply glue to the second half and give it 5 min to tack before putting in place. I used a paint stick to push the liner into the gap/cave/etc.

You can see the bubbles disappearing magically in this photo.

Edited October 11, 201113 yr by Blue

Blue, you need to be Nobel AND Oscar awarded for this. But thank god my headliner and roof is okay...for now

Edited October 12, 201113 yr by Reverend