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Body work on rear valence - two types


Mikes Z car

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I would think less than 1/8" of bondo. If it were my project "I would remove all bondo from the repair area and assess the damage. Find a suitable replacement piece and cut out only what is damaged than stitch weld the replacement in. I you feel the need to replace the whole panel than you will need to drill out the spot welds. I used a 1/4 inch drill bit and forced the panels apart with a chisel. But it would be preferable to use a spot face tool. I am not a professional welder or body man but if you use care and really take youre time lining up the replacement panels you may not need bondo at all or just a little to smooth out youre welds.

It also looks like the rear fenders where they meet the rear panel may have damage. I replaces mine with aftermarket repair panels. They were not easy to work with because the shape was off a little. I had to bend them a little by hand and hammer and dolly them a little for them to line up. So If you can find a good rear end from a junker that's the way to go but it will be hard to find rust free ones. If welding is not an option than spend some time will a hammer and dolly and work it out as much as you can, you may need to shrink the metal ether or both by using a shrinking hammer and a torch to heat than quench the metal. Hope this helps

Edited by grantf
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grantf,

Thanks for the idea of replacing only the damaged area, that is less intimidating than doing the whole valence panel. There are a couple of valences in the area I have access to though one is damaged the same place mine is (I haven't seen the other one yet). I should be able to weld in the new panel if not I know who can.

You are right, the rear of the fender next to the valence is a little damaged but I think I can push that out from behind. Taking my time with this as you suggest should help quite a bit.

5thhorsemann, thanks for the thought. It doesn't take much of a ding in the sheetmetal to make a lot of work!

Mike

Edited by Mikes Z car
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