I would think less than 1/8" of bondo. If it were my project "I would remove all bondo from the repair area and assess the damage. Find a suitable replacement piece and cut out only what is damaged than stitch weld the replacement in. I you feel the need to replace the whole panel than you will need to drill out the spot welds. I used a 1/4 inch drill bit and forced the panels apart with a chisel. But it would be preferable to use a spot face tool. I am not a professional welder or body man but if you use care and really take youre time lining up the replacement panels you may not need bondo at all or just a little to smooth out youre welds.

It also looks like the rear fenders where they meet the rear panel may have damage. I replaces mine with aftermarket repair panels. They were not easy to work with because the shape was off a little. I had to bend them a little by hand and hammer and dolly them a little for them to line up. So If you can find a good rear end from a junker that's the way to go but it will be hard to find rust free ones. If welding is not an option than spend some time will a hammer and dolly and work it out as much as you can, you may need to shrink the metal ether or both by using a shrinking hammer and a torch to heat than quench the metal. Hope this helps

Edited October 17, 201113 yr by grantf

grantf,

Thanks for the idea of replacing only the damaged area, that is less intimidating than doing the whole valence panel. There are a couple of valences in the area I have access to though one is damaged the same place mine is (I haven't seen the other one yet). I should be able to weld in the new panel if not I know who can.

You are right, the rear of the fender next to the valence is a little damaged but I think I can push that out from behind. Taking my time with this as you suggest should help quite a bit.

5thhorsemann, thanks for the thought. It doesn't take much of a ding in the sheetmetal to make a lot of work!

Mike

Edited October 18, 201113 yr by Mikes Z car