Traveled 2 hours this morning to save one from rusting away in a guy's yard. It is a 78 4 speed, baby blue...and I was told it only has 60,500 miles. Based on the condition of the hinges and hatch struts...I like to believe it. I am the 4th owner. The car has been sitting around 2 years wasting away but luckily I found it. Look forward to a long fun restoration. Pictures will be up soon.

Welcome to the site. I've got a '78 that's in the middle of a long resto. Enjoy the ride!!

Brent

Do not attempt to start it WITHOUT first removing the entire fuel system and cleaning it.

I dont know about removing the entire fuel system, but flushing it out and inspecting the Gas tank is prudent.

The tank needs to come out & get douched.All rubber associated with the fuel system needs to be replaced.Injectors should be cleaned & flowed.

Thanks for the welcome and the input. I had already planned to do the above mentioned things prior to the initial crank. I want to go the safe/smart route over the anxious want to hear it running fast route. I have had a 77 and 78 in the past when I was 15-17 yrs old. Was young and dumb. I want this to be my pride and joy for years to come.

I know there is a section for this, but since you guys advised me on things to do before starting the car, I thought you may want to keep up with me. I would love to have the car running by Christmas. Not sure how possible that is, but it is a goal.

Today I got around to:

1) Draining the radiator (that was a pretty green and brown chunks mixture)

2) Refilling the radiator with new coolant, which introduced me to a nice dry rotted hose that started leaking. (Need to replace)

3) Pulling the drain plug on the gas tank only to find out it was literally bone dry (as in not a drip of any liquid came out)

4) Removing the driver seat to remove the dry rotted carpet and vaccum up the floor/seat pan (which will one day be replaced)

5) Installing a new battery (which introduced an electrical issue, currently being discussed in the electrical threads)

6) Draining the oil, removing the oil filter, and replacing both

Hey again Bojanglez,

Soooo, to start I want to at least advise you to get the radiator boiled out, if nothing else, I'd flush it out with water and if rust comes out you probably want it boiled out. Probably more importantly is the gas tank, no gasoline means you have no clue what that tank looks like inside. You definitely want to try and look inside and it being bone dry may very well mean that rust had a party in there while gasoline was out of town. If that is the case you want to at the very least remove the tank and thoroughly clean it. (Lots of different ways to do this, sealing methods are available as well)

Definitely cannot wait to see some pictures of her up! Well since I just so happen to have it and you are at this step. I've compiled a list of things to do before ever starting a z car that has sat. It is not totally complete but it covers a lot and hopefully it'll at least be a helpful reminder or guide. Anyhow these were just copy and pasted from two threads I found ages ago, they overlap each other but together I think they cover most of the basics, hope it helps!

"Prior To Start-up:

1. As mentioned, I'd drain the gas tank and see what comes out. If it's full of rusty partials - drop the tank and have it boiled out (some radiator repair shops off that service). Plan on replacing the old rubber fuel lines as well as the vapor recovery lines that run into the passenger compartment. You will more than likely have to do this anyway - as the vapor recovery lines leak gasoline vapor into the passenger compartment - and it will give you headaches and drive you out of the car. Do it now and be done with it. It's not fun, takes some time - but you'll be glad you did it all at once....

2. As mentioned, replace all the fuel lines in the engine compartment.

3. No doubt you need to check the carb's for oper\ation - the vacuum slides get stuck... pull them apart and clean them... The flat tops look odd - but they are pretty much the same as the earlier SU's.. as far a basic operation goes..

4. Might as well replace the upper and lower radiator hoses - you'll have to do that anyway - do it now before you loose the fresh coolant you put in later.

5. Pull the spark plugs and poor a couple ounces of ATF in the cylinders... let it sit over night.. poor a little more in the next day... then - see if you can rotate the crank pulley by hand... if you have a large Strap Wrench it helps... of course you'll remove the old fan belt first - as you have already bought a new one... (when you bought the new hoses, oil, filter, coolant)... If you can't rock the crank back and forth by hand - put the car in low gear and push the car forward/backward (air the tires up and it's easier to hand push!). The idea here is to break the cylinder rings loose, and get some oil between them and cylinder walls. The ATF is very high detergent and very thin... Once you break the cylinders loose by rocking the car - poor a bit more ATF in the cylinders and see if you can now rock the engine back and forth by hand...

6 - Now drain the old oil - replace with fresh oil and new filter...

8. Install new NGK BP6ES spark plugs

9. Install new starting battery... and make sure that the old battery cables are in good shape and very clean at the terminals..

10. Remove the valve cover - and poor some clean oil over the cam lobes and rocker arm pads..replace the valve cover - (just check to be sure all the rockers are on/in-place..)

11. pull the wire from the coil - and crank the engine over rapidly - you should at least see the oil pressure gauge move... at least a little to indicate your getting oil pressure... replace the coil wire and crank it over - it will take a few seconds to get fuel though the new lines and into the carb.'s... USE THE CHOKE! (you almost always have to choke the old Z's to get them started when the engine is cold).

If it doesn't start - then you can start checking for Fuel at the Carb.'s - and Spark at the plugs etc..."

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"1. Remove plugs and spray solvent into the cylinders.. fill em up. PB Blaster will work well. Run oil over the valves, remove and clean oiler bar with Throttle body cleaner (careful with gaskets). Drain gas (check for rust). Slosh some Acetone in tank if no rust to clean out gum). Clean all electrical connections.

2. Let it set for a week.

3. Try turning at crank again with a long breaker bar or pipe on the crank nose socket ~2' to 3'

4. If it is still seized, tow the Z behind another truck/car (make sure brakes and clutch work) Go slow ~ 5/10mph and simply keep it in 5th/4th and let the clutch out when moving to grab the wheels. Then push clutch in. Do this a few times and it should work fine.

5. Try turning over at crank again.

6. If it turns drain oil and replace. Oil the came again

7. Turn over at starter with plugs out. Make sure all valves move smoothly under cam lobes. Make sure oil is pumped out of oil bar evenly on all lobes (if not, remove and clean oil bar)

8. Change distributor cap and rotor and plugs (NGK brand) and wires (NGK)

9. Check Rad fluid levels

10 . check for spark and fuel flow

11. Start it up.

12. Replace all fluids, hoses, check brakes, clutch, EFI components, tires, etc."

Got a $3,500 check today for insurance repair on my '03 4Runner. I do not anticipate sending it to a body shop. AKA hello money to work on the Datsun!!!

Buy a camera and take and post some pics, we always love to see the cars we are talking about around here.

Well....I won't be buying a camera. I just need to charge up my wife's and go to work on taking pics. I took a bunch with my iPod but understand now why it is known for music and not taking photos. Not very good quality. I will get pictures up soon. I would say it is nothing elaborate to look at, but I would be lying. Every Z is worthy of looking at

Well I have a couple of terrible pictures from my Ipod just to let you know what it looks like. More will come hopefully this weekend. I just made my first parts purchase, as I bought new fusible links from MSA. I guess the project has now officially begun.

Sorry for the quality...I am getting addicted to this website!

Cool keep us posted on how it's coming along. The EFI system seems confusing at first but as you work out the bugs all the mystery peices will fall into place.