Can anyone tell me the difficulty level for changing out the exhaust / intake manifold gasket on a 1972 240Z?

I have "decent" mechanic skills, but not a pro.

Thanks in advance,

Danny

Take the bolts out, clean the mating sufaces, install gasket and bolts and tighten. Anything that gets in the way of giving adequate clearance to get in there and do the work, take that loose too.....

Hint: Unless you are proficient at extracting broken bolts and studs, I'd say save a lot of grief and take it to a mechanic. Nothing wrong with good money spent wisely.... Your average mechanic today would probaly cheer at such a simple job based on today's stuff.

I changed mine on my 280z earlier this year

It depends my good sir,

Best case scenario:

All bolts and studs come out perfectly, Murphy (his three laws that is) doesn't get involved and all goes exactly as depicted in the FSM I'd say a 4 or 5 on a scale of 10.

All other cases

One or more studs/bolts breaks in the head. Murphy's laws somehow get involved and the FSM lies then its an 8.

I had the later one occur. The finals stud closest to the thermostat housing broke off in the head. I spent a good hour and a half extracting and then tapping the new hole for a new stud. The whole experience took about 4 hours which included tightening all the bolts about six different times as I kept forgetting to attach things. From what I can tell you if you don't have extensions and swivel ends for your ratchets I'd take Mr. Palmer's advice and take it to a shop.

Jan

Only my opinion, I am not an expert….Use a lot of PB blaster, liquid wrench or any penetrating oil on any bolt you have to remove. Keep them wet for a day or two in advance if possible. Replace the studs and nuts if possible and use High temperature copper based anti-seize when re-assembling in case you have ever take it apart again. http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-37616-Copper-Anti-Seize-Stick/dp/B0029SZIUI and http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-drive-stud-extractor-94640.html FYI...I see good thing about KROIL penetrating oil on this web site http://kanolabs.com/

Edited October 27, 201113 yr by philbar73

It is an easy job IMO, on a carbed car at least. Use patience (and lots of rust penetrant) while loosening the nuts/bolts. Loosen from outside to inside and a little bit at a time. Break loose and slightly re-tighten all fasteners before removing any. I do this to ensure that each fastener is removable before actually taking them out, and so that all fasteners are sharing the grip load instead of the final one taking all of it while you're trying to remove it. Remember that some fasteners share intake and exhaust flanges. Make sure to get new intake/exhaust manifold studs, they're $20 or so from MSA.

I've done this a few times and can do the job in an hour or less, unless some nuts are stubborn. It helps to have a spare head on the workbench to reference bolt hole positions! Don't forget to disconnect throttle linkage, heat shield and the fuel rail as well.

When reinstalling, use antiseize on the studs and thread them in. Use the studs as a gasket-guide. Make sure to tighen in sequence from inside to outside. Do not overtighten, I believe only 10-15 ft-lb is called for.

Edited October 27, 201113 yr by LeonV
Typo

I did this in summer for the first time and it was eazy. Luckily bolts in my Z were not tight at all. Just used 2 feet long pipe to extend the socket wrench. All the bolt holes were filled with crap, that needs to be removed.